Have you switched the bulbs over? That'd be my first step.

Are the indicator lights independent on type 4's? Or are they like type 3's etc where both flash as a single unit regardless of which direction you're turning?
I barely looked in a type 4 but maybe they have two separate bulbs yet both light and one of the bulbs has gone?

Just guessing here...

Ok just a little update for you guys... It has a pulse! There is life just..... I used a multimeter rather than a bulb to set the basic timing pumped the accelerater,cranked it and it caught,! Got it I thought...ran for about 2mins n then died. Now I can only get it to fire should I flick the thrott...

turn engine until Rotor arm points to the notch & Timing mark is in line with the lug on the fanhousing (remember the L shaped Plate mentioned previously? Well as mentioned earlier the timing marks and the notch on the dissy don't correlate???? But the car ran before.. Ran well started first time e...

OK, can I ask if you have access to a strobe light with dial adjuster for checking the timing? No . but i'm just trying to get the bugger to catch even just a glimmer of catching would be nice ... The idle timing should be around 5 degrees BTDC so when No1 is at TDC the rotor arm should line up wit...

OK an update on this and i'm still needing help ! I've determined number 1 at TDC . Got the distributer leads on in the correct order. Number 1 is the pole at about 10 O'clock. Now with the timing marks on the pulley at the top the rotor seems to point between the poles on the distributor for 1 and ...

Yep, this happened to mine but it had completely split....simply I just mounted it with a longer m3 screw and nut and a penny washer.

Living just down the road from here I will expect to be attending....hopefully the Fasty will be sorted by then too!

Sorry guys, thanks all the help just with the crap weather lately I haven't had a look at it. Just popped out this afternoon and chucked a new set of leads on (old ones had some nasty splits in but still worked) While I was at it I popped the rocker cover off and it seemed at first location of timin...

Mike, tried to send you a PM re: these. It's just sat in outbox? Is your inbox full?

Cheers
Andrew

Ahh ok didn't wanna hear that...

Haven't even though about valve gaps...it was running fine a few months back .

Edit. Would that still be the most likely case should the engine be possibly firing in wrong order?

Ok cheers Mike don't know where to start there.....but I'm gonna have another fiddle with these leads tomorrow. I know it's gotta be something simple I'm just confusing myself...the bitch is gonna run again I'm sure .... Looking again at the cap it seems it's marked with the leads moved around one l...

This image shows the timing marks on the pulley at the top and the rotor lined up with the notch for no 1 at 10 o'clock . Obviously winding it through 180 the rotor points to the opposite post.. So which is no1 meant to be at? I also note the pulley only has 3 marks rather than 4 strangely.? http://...

Sorry Mike, which marking? The notch for cylinder1 is at about 10o'clock like you suggested.
But I too have looked at a few pics and see them wired as No1 from 5 o'clock clockwise 1-4-3-2

Also in this thread there is talk of number 1 at 4-5o'clock

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5017&p=23970&hilit ... der#p23970

Yes I know how the cap fits and it does correctly. Also the mark on the distributor rim for number 1 cylinder is where I expect it to be. At as you say 10 O'clock. Now if I fit the old cap. The marking at number 1 is FR front right which would be correct (depending on what you are calling front? ) I...

Ok Guys need a hand .. 72 Fastback Dual Carb. car was laid up for bodywork / mechanic resto. engine wasn't touched. when I reassembled the car the bugger wouldn't start easily , it did in the end but just spluttered managing to move a few feet before dying totally a spark hasn't caught since! me and...

Ok well it appears I was just being a bit of a cock last night and being overly concerned about protecting newly painted parts.... the arms went in with a gentle tap. But it seams what I was attempting to use as the seals were not actually the correct item. Would anyone have a decent pic or an excel...

Ok guys I've already hit my next stumbling block in re-assembling the front axle .. This time I seem to be having trouble getting the top arms into the axle tube both Bentley and Haynes suggest this is as simple as pushing them into the tubes but I know you need to turn the arm as you do it to clear...

Thanks for that Marko.. I just got it in an hour ago. Body mount rubbers off ,clamps on, then body mount rubbers squeezed in last seemed to do it for me! All looking good now.. Like yours.

It depends Marko , earlier ones were equal the later ones are thicker on one side this is to adjust the castor angle.. I assume thicker at the back to slacken the angle. They also have shoulders on one side these must butt against end plates so only two ways of being fitted. Your pics would be aprec...

Rubber collars are on thick side between frame head and beam is that right ? thats how Haynes/Bentley describes it ? I have noticed though there are two mount holes for the upper clamp to body mounts so it looks like it could be fitted either way ?

I tried it fitting the clamps after the beam was in the frame head...tonight i'll try clamps on the beam then slot it in maybe lube up the rubbers too ..oooh errr

Oh and the rubber collars....it's the thick part towards frame head right?

For the last hour or so I've been wrestling with the front of my 72 fasty. I can't seem to get the clamps onto the beam... It just jams under the body mounts and I can't even force the damn things on with a block n hammer! Has anyone got any tips for installing the front beam? is it easier to fit th...