'Spirit of the 50s' did mine and they were very good.

Trick (fiddly bit) is getting the carbs balanced to run smoothly, especially the transition between idle curcuit and main circuit. The VW booklet (samba link) is excellent and helped me loads, there is also a good description in John Muir's (Compleat idiot) book if you have it. Backfiring sounds lik...

This might be of interest...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251998

I recommend these guys, they specialise in british classics but got me a Type 3 caliper at a good price a couple of years back J E M Vintage & Classic Car Consultants Lockheed, Girling, Dunlop, ATE,DBA & Bendix parts Ashcroft House Druid Street Hinckley Leicestershire UK Tel: 01455 230626 Fax: 01455...

I recommend the Brazilian spec stock paper element filter unit 8) 8) No more messy gloopy filter oil changes for me! -- Stand by for the techno haters saying 'old fashioned oil bath filter is best' Stock type filter is better than pancake type on the top of each carb as it pulls colder air in from o...

Here's the howto I put together from when I did this job on my square, hope it helps!

viewtopic.php?t=2410&highlight=

Oooh, flashback - looks like my square's sills did when I started poking around during the rebuild! The sill is a pretty complicated section, you can get inner and outer panels, but you will also need to repair the heater tube and the reinforcing panels for strength. I would recommend looking on htt...

I have a couple of square metres left over from making my headliner. It's non-perforated vinyl, can't remember off the top of my head if its white or off-white.

That article mentions rubber or plastic chrome filler strip. Ours isn't plastic chrome, it's polished anodised aluminium and is likely to be damaged if bent as much as the drawing shows. Yes, but the aluminium chrome trim isn't supposed to be removed from the rubber anyway, the window can be remove...

:) Option 1 - find key :( Option 2 - pick lock (or pay locksmith to do it for you) - no damage :shock: Option 3 - slide hammer screwed into the lock barrel to pull it out - distinct possibility of damage to the tailgate using this method! You will need to break the lock tumblers plus the small roll ...

The diamond shaped tool is the correct one. There should be a small 'roller' attachment on it too. You use it pointing forwards, it's a bit counter-intuitive, and hard to describe in writing! But basically open up the slot in the rubber, push in the chrome trim through the front of the diamond bit i...

I can recommend Spirit of the 50s.

I have some spare headliner material left over, probably a couple of square metres or more (vinyl non-perforated) might be good for patching or practicing. Let me know if you're interested. I bought it from here: http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

I made and fitted my own headlining for my Squareback (well my sister-in-law did the sewing). It's a fiddly job with unexpected problems as you stretch the material along the car in 3 dimensions A Squareback is a pretty simple shape really and there are only two stitched seams, but you need to take ...

If you bought the Brazilian seals, you will need to cut a slit in the back so they fit either side of the flange on the door, apart from down the front edge by the hinges. You will need to hold them in place with contact adhesive. With a bit of care they fit really well. http://images.thesamba.com/v...

Use the 'universal' outer scraper from Status, you have to trim one end as it is designed to fit on either door but it fits well and allows enough length for TYpe 3 window. I used it on my square and am very happy with the results. Photos and howto here (if you can get the website to work) http://ww...

Damn! I live in Hinckley...

But my Mrs probably wouldn't let me have another project car though

Early or late car? Carbs or fuel injection? :?: :?: :?: On all models there is a mesh filter over the fuel outlet pipe in the tank, this can get clogged and collapse, or maybe just rusty if the tank has been left empty for ages. You can see this mesh by removing the fuel gauge sender from the top of...

It's an access panel to allow removal of the gear lever linkage. It is on both early & late model cars.

The 'vents' either side of this hole on some early / US cars (sometimes dubbed the 'mickey mouse' valance) are actually horn grilles, I believe.

what's HRW stand for? Heated Rear Window?

Yep

There's a second relay under the rear seat, by the HRW relay. Have you checked this is working / connected correctly as well?

It's the same as the bug apart from: The two front bolts aren't on the front beam, they are just ahead of it (on the beam clamps) - these are unbolted from underneath There are extra bolts at the rear compared to a bug - two under the rear seat by the heater tubes under round plastic caps, and two i...

There's a lot of info about the FI system on TheSamba here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21015 The guys there have plenty of experience with these systems and the consensus seems to be that they are pretty robust and most problems are down to poor connections rather than anything...

71 Square

Access is tricky as you're working upside down, but the plastic interior airbox assembly does come out pretty easily, it's held on with 4 M6 (10mm head) bolts, you can reach them with a 1/4" drive socket and a long extension. You will also need to remove the two control knobs which are held on by 2 ...

This photo is facing rear towards the back of the door, you can just see the reinforcing plate for the seat belt bolt hole. Secondary layer of steel on the outside is an oversill which had been added at some point in my car's past, so as standard this will be a single thickness. http://images.thesam...