Yep, and for spares, make one good one out of two bad ones ?

Even a coil from a different part number may be acceptable, or cast the net wider as other cars used D-Jet too

Ah, I thought you were going to repair yours using those instructions.

I assume you have asked Purplepeter / Editor directly ?

Just seen your other post.

How did you get on, what has made you give up, it seemed you were close to sorting this

I think I had heard of the wiring harness problem before, but it was deep and buried away. You have confirmed that the problem is gone on cold start. For me that's a further confirmation of basis rich running., You need a richer mixture when cold, you're just running a rich richer mixture, and it'll...

You have two problems: One cylinder not running properly (3 plugs sooty, one unchanged "number three was as I had put it in the other day"), as it's sparking then it's the fuel that's not there, probably an injector problem, possibly wiring to the injector.. Running rich by default, because not all ...

You say it's running rich and the plugs are black. Have you cleaned or replaced the plugs? A poor spark is sure to cause a poor burn and rough running. Also, do you have a control knob on the ECU? Not all do but if you do I think its anti-clockwise for lean and clockwise for rich. Good luck with th...

sparkywig wrote: ↑

27th March 2020 - 3:33pm

The mojo is back, for the moment anyway

Well that in itself is excellent news

I agree Hunting generally used to be put down to the auxiliary air valve IIRC. From what we know the system does not have all the components connected, and as each of them performs a function it isn't going to run properly until each of them is sorted. Then it will all be sweet :) Starting point I s...

Nah, you've got it now, the question on sent messages comes up frequently for new users

It goes into the outbox.

When read it moves to the sent messages

You have an unread message from me

You haven't drilled the rivets out and separated the two pneumatic halves though have you ?

You know, the bit that those linked pages advise you not to do. But, if it's completely u/s you are not going to make it worse are you

Sounds like a replacement / borrowed MAP sensor for the moment, followed by some experimentation for an electrical repair of the failed sensor. It might only be a failed solder joint

But if I had left it 1600 I would definitely get that FI system sorted - nothing better when running as intended...good luck sorting +1 on that What's the current problem Doug ? Is the fuel pump earth sorted. Have you got the test measurements for the MAP sensor to check against, or got one to drop...

Rob 400e wrote: ↑

24th March 2020 - 10:08am

I’m ordering a new set from Just Kampers.

I would get a better quality set from elsewhere.........

Which "thermal switch" is disconnected ? Auxilliary air valve and thermo time switch are necessary for proper running The 5th / cold start injector is located on the central manifold. If you remove the electrical connection it cannot inject (but if it is broken it might just dribble fuel in) Have yo...

Are we there yet ?

Bogging down because it is too weak or too rich when in D on idle. I'm thinking too rich, rather than lean ? Being an auto makes things more difficult to diagnose too. Does it bog down when cold and in D as well, or only when hot. I'm thinking maybe the cold start injector is staying on, but that's ...

Actually, that's more like what I had in my head before I referred to this http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=287206&st=60 I assume there's a bit of head work and camshaft changes to get it to rev to those levels ? If you are on 15" teledials then you I reckon your gearing is about spo...

Enough info there to do some more mathematical guesswork

Engine power 130hp ish
Fairly flat torque curve
Top speed about 115 mph, though you may be banging on the rev limiter there, you've run out of gearing already

You've got a huge gap between 3rd and 4th then. On standard tyres the ratio has changed from 21.6 to 23.2 mph / 1000 rpm, plus whatever you have done on the tyres. 3rd to 4th on standard tyres the jump is from 13.5 to 23.2 mph / 1000 rpm, against a standard 14.4 >21.6 I forget, have you got a more p...

Nice to see some photos of the car with all 4 wheels on the ground

What ratios are you running ? Standard box with a radically different final drive ?

Nice to see some photos of the car with all 4 wheels on the ground

What ratios are you running ? Standard box with a radically different final drive ?

Have you read the many musings of Ray Greenwood over on the Samba regarding type 4 suspension. Well worth doing so before you do something that may accelerate wear elsewhere in the suspension.

Editor wrote: ↑

1st March 2020 - 1:35am

There is an excellent description of overhauling the fuel pump on this forum site, in TECHNICAL STUFF>Engine & Transmission

That info is also available on the website http://www.vwtype3and4club.org.uk/fi_pump.php, it just depends if the web or word format is preferred

Here's a link with the part numbers - unique to type 3 and type 34 by the looks of things

http://www.type34.com/forum/mechanical/ ... build-kits

Mecatechnic have them in stock, sit down while you look at the price