That's the one!
Plug in vw relays have the same pin arrangment, so the one they sell for beetles will fit.
The only earth's are the ones that all the lights share and one for the high / low beam switching.
If the side lights work and the high beam flasher works then it sounds like they're ok.

It won't be the switch as that supplies current for both high and low beam from the same terminal. It could possibly be the relay, so check the yellow wire going from the relay socket to the fuse box. If there's nothing there, then its likely the relay that's at fault unless its the high/low beam op...

The pressure rating of the switch is the point at which it switches the light off, and no indication of how "heavy duty" it is. Now the engine has to make at least 1.4 bar before the light goes off, which it might struggle to do on tick over, especially if it's a bit worn. I would replace it with th...

Do you have the limit plate installed correctly?
It fits between the chassis and the shifter base, but wouldn't be required with an aftermarket shifter like the Berg you mentioned.

Really glad to hear you managed to fix it Joe.
I'm sure your experience will be useful to others in the future, so thanks for sharing.

Cheers

First up could be the early fuel tank vent hose if the narrowing is just about 20mm at one end.
Second is definitely the steering column mounting to the dash panel.
I don't recognise the parts in the other two pics.

I might be wrong, but I think that is a different one.
The one in the picture if I remember was quite ratty (when ratty was bad) and a bit of a mongrel.
Dave will remember more, I was only starting to get involved.

This one?



Its a good 20 years old, from a PC mag feature.
The late Fastback and Variant are Dave's and he still has them, the early Fastback was I believe Paul Taylors, and the Notch at the far end belonged to Christian Wagner.

Hi Joe, Its never happened to me personally, but I have heard of it several times. As the conduit and fuel line were installed before the floor pan went on, the only way to access the weld is to cut a window in the centre tunnel as you describe. However carefully done I'm sure it can be an almost in...

Yes, of course. It'll be a few days before I can get pics, but pm me your email and I'll get back to you with some.

I have some NOS OEM sets with chevrons.

Like these ones in either black or white.



And some plain ones in white.

Or Beetle ones will fit with a suitable bracket..

Possibly its the sender. The float moves a contact along a track of resistance wire which determines the gauge reading. At the top there's the least resistance so the gauge reads full, but if the wire is broken then the gauge won't read as there's no circuit. If you undo the little nut off the botto...

It sounds like the clutch surfaces aren't square. Like the resurfacing wasn't done correctly or possibly a distorted cover if the bolts weren't tightened in the correct order (alternatively across the plate). Another cause is not having the bend in the clutch cable outer, but if it has not been dist...

Thanks Will.
Yes I'll be there, but I'll probably only have my T34 on the road so I'll see if I can park it on the KGOC stand as they always seem to get a bit more space.

Cheers

Probably best save a space for Dave as he brings the stand. And also Larry and Lin usually come up.

L91 is the only reference I can see too.
If you're unused wheel was made later than actual production parts, possibly it got painted in whatever was the silver of the day.
L91D is Kansas Beige - yes, confusing I know...

The drums themselves are different, maybe they presume the internals are different too.
That's the benefit of having an owners club!

On rears, post 63 are the same.

The wire should be connected to the steering box coupling flange so that when the horn press is pushed it completes a circuit through the steering column which would otherwise be insulated from earth. The wire should end in a ring terminal which is attached to one of the steering coupler bolts, it w...

I'm in the process of adjusting my T34 at the moment. 1 outer spline is worth 55mm, 1 inner is 60mm, so 1 spline in each direction = 5mm in the direction the inner spline is rotated. Therefore to get an inch (25mm) lower you need to rotate the inner spline up 5 splines and the outer back down 5 spli...

The spacers depend on which Oil cooler and Crankcase combination you have.
There's one combination that doesn't require any, although you'll probably need to remove the cooler to see which it is you have.
I have a table with all the options in a manual somewhere - I'll dig it out...

Unfortunately whem you throw a few variables in, and the differences with modern fuel the book settongs go out the window. There's going to be a bit of trial and error to get it spot on - all part of the joys of running an old car.. Basically find a decent hill and keep retarding it until it goes up...

The 3 marks on the early pulleys are 7.5, 10 & 12.5 BTDC


Not sure why 12.5, I guess 2.5 either side of 10, which would have been the static setting at the time.
Definitely start off at 7.5 here though.

Is anyone going?
I have a table, I'll be offering a choice selection of NOS, New and good used Type 3 parts.
There's never enough room to bring much, so let me know if there's anything particular you're looking for.

Table 97, hopefully see some of you there!