Perforations in the steel filler neck are fairly common, which can be brazed up. Also check the J shaped vent pipe
I'd have thought a Beetle filler cap seal would fit

Ahaa... Engine oil.. Good call!
It appears to be just rusty at the very top edge of the filler neck where it seals against the rubber seal, though I might suspect the threads of the cap need a clean too.. will give it a go

A bit of a strange one.. My filler cap has started rusting itself onto the filler neck inbetween fill ups
Obviously I'm inclined to give it a finger full of grease, but the question is.. What kind of grease do you reckon? Lithium, silicon, copper, moly or red rubber grease?
Any opinions please?

He's got an adjustable Fuel pump & a source of a near complete Carb set up from a source that isn't going to fleece him..only extra expenses will be a gasket set from young Mr Broad & possibly (if I can't find them,) a pair of cut off valves

Start with the simplest thing- When did you last change the fuel filter?

Miketyp3 on here

I can sort you out the full kit if needed Doug for a fraction of those carbs

Speak to Mike Dempster

Carbs require a much lower fuel pressure, so as long as yours is adjustable you'll be ok
I was assuming you'd go for stock carbs
The balance pipe goes between the 2 carbs to even things out on idle

You know Mike Dempster makes good HT leads?
To convert to carbs You'll need: Manifolds, carbs, 2 linkage rods, central "tree", air filter, fuel pump?- check if you've got the drilling for it, dissy, balance pipe- all fairly easily available

I can't be much help with FI
But have you thought of Fuel Filter?
Talk nicely to her

FI tanks are fairly common
Something sticks in my mind about the screen in the tank causing problems if you try to use por15
(the screen that separates the main tank from the fuel return)

And 70's beetles had drums all round & much the same instruction, so maybe Robins answer might be to fit a dual circuit cyl & add a rpv to the front line, though I suspect it might not make a lot of difference. But I'd encourage him to check the bore of the 2 cyls first He could also try proactively...

Twasn't me that told him, but probably because of the residual pressure question

As already said, Your best bet is past parts, who will sleeve & rebuild your cylinder to the original bore I probably have the rebuild kit, ( bag full of nos components, but you need to strip & measure what you've got) But, the chances are that your cylinder is knackered anyway, so not much point tr...

Funnily enough, Justin asked the same question- Dave hall told him to use denso tape
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8663&p=46282&hilit ... eal#p46282

Welcome back Kieron!

You have a PM Doug!

Beyond suggesting a temporary earth to confirm diagnosis, My best suggestion would be that you drop an email to Dave Hall directly- He's always been the FI guru
Would a nos relay help?
Beyond that, I think Jim Bourne has a nos ECU

That's a relief to hear someone say that.. I've never in my life taken an unloaded engine up to that kind of revs just to check the advance limits. I don't think I've seen it written down anywhere either I would check the 205T over thoroughly though, suck on the vac to check that it moves & stick a ...

Here's mine, made in a hurry 15 years ago.. I've been meaning to refine it/ make a neater version, but it works & there's always something better to do! Dimensions: across the top of the short bit of the L is 40mm. Down the outer part of the long leg is 75mm. width of the long leg is 17mm. inner par...

Yes Sima, the left mark is TDC for 1 & 3
The flat mark is for 2 & 4 - just aim for the middle of the mark
Have you got the L shaped plate to aid timing ?
Incidentally, I can't see the photos on your other post, but I can on this one

I'll be going.. Lets see if we can get a decent showing of Type 3 & 4's?
Aircooled events ltd always put on a good event

Obviously Danny, Please keep a spot for Dave & I guess larry & lin will want one
I'm giving it a miss this year but going up the fosseway to Aircooled campout in July