1973 FASTBACK PLEASE HELP ME!

chevrolet6291 · Post by **chevrolet6291** » 7th February 2007 - 11:01am

I have a 1973 1600E Fastback auto, whenever I start it up it takes nearly 10 mins before I can actually drive it else it keeps cutting out, anyone have any ideas? Also, I want some alloy wheels, wheres the best place to get them and what should i look for (offset?) Thanks folks... Lorna

flat4fanatic · Post by **flat4fanatic** » 7th February 2007 - 3:16pm

Afraid I can't help with the running issue, but cheapest place to get some alloys would probably be dubfreeze on the 18th

miketyp3 · Post by **miketyp3** » 7th February 2007 - 5:32pm

I'm no expert by a long way, but I don't think there are any issues with 4 stud alloys on Type 3's
The cheaper (MWS) BRM's rub on 5 stud Type 3 rear arches, so you may want to avoid the 4 stud version if it has a simular offset.

Mike.

steveatutopia · Post by **steveatutopia** » 10th February 2007 - 2:54pm

It sounds like the chokes could be a little slow on warm up (restricting air to the engine and chokeing out) or some sort of tuneing problem (unlikely as it runs fine after warm up)
An automatic rellys on a constant engine speed and power when in drive to drive the torque converter.
Any problems with the engines idleing will cause it to cut out.
Also look for any air leaks on the inlet as this can cause odd running issues.
I used to have a bay window automatic that cut out on warm up, so it sounds like the same sort of problems.

Post by **Editor** » 10th February 2007 - 3:54pm

1600E - still fuel injection?
There's an auxiliary air intake that acts as a 'choke' by allowing a bit of extra air into the big aluminium chamber and makes the fuel injection system think you've got the throttle a bit open.

On automatics it's usually worked by a bimetal coil and electric heater. It sits where the fuel pump normally would on a carb engine - at the back near the centreline (back is back of car!).

It may not be working properly - they do fail, and are not easily dismantled. Some people have cleaned out the chamber with (say) WD40 and worked a seized rotating valve gradually to and fro until it moves freely.

The other possibility is the cylinder head temp sensor. The wire from it comes out of the left hand engine tinware near no 4 plug to a single connector above the left-hand cover plate. Unplug there and measure the resistance to engine block. Cold should be around 2,500 Ohms, and it reduces to a few hundred when hot.

Additionally, check all electrical connections are good and vacuum hoses are attached and leak-free.

chevrolet6291 · Post by **chevrolet6291** » 19th February 2007 - 10:10am

Thankyou so much for your help, much appreciated, Now it stops after it has been running for miles, yesterday it ran for 20 miles, stopped at some lights and it cut out, it took 10 mins to start after that, What should I do, Thankyou.

steveatutopia · Post by **steveatutopia** » 19th February 2007 - 4:33pm

does it have trouble starting from cold?

Post by **Editor** » 19th February 2007 - 5:16pm

I've had similar problems involving a fuel-pump relay - can you hear it whirring for a couple of seconds when you turn the ignition on?

Another thought, if the voltage regulator isn't working well, the engine may be running very rich, as the Fuel Injection is very sensitive to the supply voltage. This could have sooted up the plugs at idle, and made it hard to re-start. You need to measure 14v at medium rpm to show the regulator is OK.

I've just been reading about someone else with a similar problem - some suggestion that the cylinder head temp sensor may be going open circuit, or even short-circuit, as the car warms up. Check the wire is prevented from earthing on the engine tinware where it comes through by plug 4.
Get out the ohmmeter and check what it reads hot and cold - as suggested earlier.

chevrolet6291 · Post by **chevrolet6291** » 20th February 2007 - 12:16pm

Yeah often has trouble starting from cold, it runs fine though when started, as for the cutting out after a journey, think it's my battery - with lights and radio on it was running my battery down, it seemed fine this morning though. My exhaust was blowing really badly as it hadn't been put together right!? This has now been rectified and it is unbelievably quiet now, like a new car...

steveatutopia · Post by **steveatutopia** » 20th February 2007 - 3:47pm

the thing is, if you know the car hasn't been serviced recently, it a good idea to change the plugs, leads,points etc and cheak the ingition timing. this is often the most commen cause of running faults on engines.

its a good idea anyway as faulty parts cause havoc with proformance

as soon as you know the basic things have been corrected , you can then start looking at more difficult problems

I don't know much about faults on this type fuel injection, but ill have a look in the manual tonight

now the exhaust is on right it will also help alot

steve

1973 FASTBACK PLEASE HELP ME!

1973 FASTBACK PLEASE HELP ME!

Thanks for your help

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