External oil cooler ?
External oil cooler ?
Hi I am having trouble keeping my Notchback oil cool. Has anyone fitted an External oil cooler what system did you use?
Re: External oil cooler ?
External cooler and thermostatic switch works well for high compression motors - why is yours getting hot?
thermostat all setup and working well? - timing ok?
if you are running hi-po motor, CSP in Germany sell adaptors that allow oil form pump thru an external filter to oil stat to cooler and back t the main oil gallery.
thermostat all setup and working well? - timing ok?
if you are running hi-po motor, CSP in Germany sell adaptors that allow oil form pump thru an external filter to oil stat to cooler and back t the main oil gallery.
The variant Project
Re: External oil cooler ?
Russ in Brisbane Australia fitted an adaptor plate to piggy-back the normal oil cooler, and supply a full-flow filter and an external oil cooler above the gearbox. He had to modify the tinware slightly, but it looks much like the original, and there's space under the twin carb air-cleaner. It's not needed in the UK for stock engines!
There must be a reason your Notch is getting hot. Maybe the flaps in the fan-housing aren't opening - they mount on the steel cross rod, so check that turns about 30 degrees between cold and hot.The flaps are inside the squared off housing, so not too easily seen.
The original thermostat should fail safe - ie flaps open if it gets a leak. Take a look at the thermostat in the right-hand heater channel - it should be compressed when cold, and expanded when hot. There is a mechanism under the tinware that may be missing or seized. Sometimes engine rebuilders simply leave them out, which gives longer warm-up and increased engine wear. I understand replacement thermostats don't necessarily fail safe, so if yours is short whether hot or cold, that may be the problem.
Check the timing is OK - it can cause overheating if not correct.
Crankcase clean or clogged with oily dirt?
There must be a reason your Notch is getting hot. Maybe the flaps in the fan-housing aren't opening - they mount on the steel cross rod, so check that turns about 30 degrees between cold and hot.The flaps are inside the squared off housing, so not too easily seen.
The original thermostat should fail safe - ie flaps open if it gets a leak. Take a look at the thermostat in the right-hand heater channel - it should be compressed when cold, and expanded when hot. There is a mechanism under the tinware that may be missing or seized. Sometimes engine rebuilders simply leave them out, which gives longer warm-up and increased engine wear. I understand replacement thermostats don't necessarily fail safe, so if yours is short whether hot or cold, that may be the problem.
Check the timing is OK - it can cause overheating if not correct.
Crankcase clean or clogged with oily dirt?
Dave.