Hi Vw people,
I have recently purchase a 1970 automatic, fuel injected, Squareback. It started out fine, but as I should expect from a 40 year old car, it has begun taking on some issues.
I have taken it to my mechanic (who is an awesome VW guy) for a stalling problem caused by the idle dropping at intersections. He can give it back to me, running fine and handling a stop or to in traffic, but as soon as I wanna take her out some where else (besides home from the mechanic) it begins stalling. Only if I ride the brake and give her some gas at stops will she not stall. Also, it wont have this issue when its in park but, as soon as I put it in drive it occurs.
This is not the way it should work, is it?
I read something on the forum about it possibly being a thermostat problem. But I wasn't sure if that would be the same fix on my model.
Any suggestions?
'70 Squareback has poor idle.
Automatics have an idle rpm of 900 +/- 50rpm. That's quite high compared with many cars. Are you sure it's not just set too slow on idle? An aircooled VW expert would be sure to know that, so it's probably not that.
Sometimes fuel pump relays give trouble - you can clean the contacts inside.
Check the voltage being put out by the regulator to the battery. If that's on the way out, and drops below about 14V when running, it can cause problems. Good thing is it's an easy fix!
Probably the first to check is the gas tank filler neck vent hose. It's a J-shaped rubber tube that links a small pipe brazed into the large filler pipe to the tank vent system through the inner wheel arch. It's part number 25 in the diagram at http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3/T3pbo/T3pb2-02.htm .
That splits and lets all sorts of dirt and water into the tank. This can upset the fuel pump, with water ingestion, and may clog the fuel tank or filter. If it's split, it's not always easy to find another. Some solder a copper 'street elbow' on and use a plain 1/2" hose, pushing it through the grommet part of the old one to keep it sealed to the body. Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org sells a kit to replace the hose, or there's a guy in the UK who has had them reproduced and advertises on ebay.co.uk . You would need to check his are the right ones for your car - there are pre-April 1972 and post-April 1972 versions. If you have a bayonet fuel cap it's the earlier one, or a screw cap if the later one.
Take a look in your tank by removing the fuel gauge sender unit - is there muck in there, or has someone put in tank sealant any time? There's a useful picture at http://home.clara.net/hallvw/fuelsend.htm that shows an area that clogs up in the tank bottom. Usually it causes difficulty if the tank contents go below about 1/2 way as the only way to fill the reservoir cup then is through that narrow gap if it can't slop in over the edge.
Well, there's a few things to check before even blaming the fuel injection electronics. Whatever you do, don't change to carbs!
Sometimes fuel pump relays give trouble - you can clean the contacts inside.
Check the voltage being put out by the regulator to the battery. If that's on the way out, and drops below about 14V when running, it can cause problems. Good thing is it's an easy fix!
Probably the first to check is the gas tank filler neck vent hose. It's a J-shaped rubber tube that links a small pipe brazed into the large filler pipe to the tank vent system through the inner wheel arch. It's part number 25 in the diagram at http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3/T3pbo/T3pb2-02.htm .
That splits and lets all sorts of dirt and water into the tank. This can upset the fuel pump, with water ingestion, and may clog the fuel tank or filter. If it's split, it's not always easy to find another. Some solder a copper 'street elbow' on and use a plain 1/2" hose, pushing it through the grommet part of the old one to keep it sealed to the body. Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org sells a kit to replace the hose, or there's a guy in the UK who has had them reproduced and advertises on ebay.co.uk . You would need to check his are the right ones for your car - there are pre-April 1972 and post-April 1972 versions. If you have a bayonet fuel cap it's the earlier one, or a screw cap if the later one.
Take a look in your tank by removing the fuel gauge sender unit - is there muck in there, or has someone put in tank sealant any time? There's a useful picture at http://home.clara.net/hallvw/fuelsend.htm that shows an area that clogs up in the tank bottom. Usually it causes difficulty if the tank contents go below about 1/2 way as the only way to fill the reservoir cup then is through that narrow gap if it can't slop in over the edge.
Well, there's a few things to check before even blaming the fuel injection electronics. Whatever you do, don't change to carbs!
Dave.
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purplepeter
- Posts: 2339
- Joined: 8th August 2006 - 4:41pm
- Location: Bath, Avon
Thinking of it upside down as a J shape, I thought the stem of the J is longer in the later ones - you can't cut 5mm out of that. The grommet bit fixes where it goes through the body.
I think I recall seeing a version sometime that had two grommets moulded on - a universal replacement, but I've only ever seen one (or may even have dreamt it!).
I think I recall seeing a version sometime that had two grommets moulded on - a universal replacement, but I've only ever seen one (or may even have dreamt it!).
Dave.
-
purplepeter
- Posts: 2339
- Joined: 8th August 2006 - 4:41pm
- Location: Bath, Avon
The two variations are here,although my scan didnt show it very well-i've got the late one here,& will retrieve the earlier one from simon at some point,so will take a better pic then!..oh,& its 10mm difference!-we did fairly thoroughly compare the two!
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viewtopic.php?t=3291&highlight=fuel+filler+vent