Source for chokes?

[Chino]

I'm hoping to have my carbs rebuilt in the next month or so, they've never had chokes on whilst I've owned the car. I'd like to refit some as it's a pain to get going on colder days at times. I've got a set on a pair of 2nd hand carbs I have, although ideally I'd like to buy new if possible. Anyone point me in the right direction, or advise me what to look for on the ones I have on the 2nd hand carbs?

[purplepeter]

Right hand unit is the same as all other 12V Aircooled & therefore easy to get from the usual sources
Left Hand is more difficult to get
Put a continuity check on it & check for open circuit-There's not a lot to go wrong, so if the coil is intact, all should be well

[Chino]

Excellent, I'll get the voltmeter out, thanks Peter

[Editor]

Sometimes the heating coil is making poor contact with the brass terminal - a blob of solder can fix that.
The other problem is that the resistance wire gets progressively more oxidised and makes less heat, so chokes take longer to open, delaying backing off of the choke flaps and fast-idle system.

I feel it should be possible to rewind those heating coils, but haven't tried it yet.

[Chino]

I'm going to start on them at weekend, I'll update then. This has highlighted I've somehow managed to get by without a multimeter in my shed. I've ordered one to commence work for weekend

[Editor]

I think around 10 Ohms is correct for new ones. By the time it reaches 20 Ohms, it's pretty useless, as the heating effect is about 1/4.

[Chino]

Thanks, I'll see what we get back from these. I've noticed there are a few up for sale on the Samba if all else fails, and it's around £16 for a new RHS from usual suppliers. I'm imagining I'll want the two to be pretty evenly matched in output or I'll have an imbalance there.

[vwed]

Right hand unit is the same as all other 12V Aircooled & therefore easy to get from the usual sources
Left Hand is more difficult to get
Put a continuity check on it & check for open circuit-There's not a lot to go wrong, so if the coil is intact, all should be well

Really?
The Type 3 chokes have Type 3 specific part numbers and the usual suspects don't list their choke units as being applicable to Type 3s, just the conventional Type1 based engines for Beetle, Ghia, and Bus.
Discussion here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ?p=6804588

[Editor]

I can't see that the Type 3 engine will warm up very differently compared with Type 1, but you might get a bit more delay in one than the other, which might produce a bit of unevenness in warm up, but with the balance pipes, a lot of imbalance can exist without being that noticeable.
When all's said and done, it's only the few minute's warm up that the chokes are not fully open anyway, and VW say drive off straight away, don't leave it idling to warm up.

The bi-metal spring determines which way the choke turns - since the heaters are towards the outside of the carbs, they go opposite ways. The heater coil is pretty inaccessible - it might need a bit of skill to replace, but it's probably possible. Not sure if normal solder would be appropriate as there's heat involved when in use. Make sure any repair can't fail and short +12V to earth, as I don't think the ignition circuit is fused, and the choke heaters are connected to coil (15).

[In2Rust]

I have a pair of used carbs that I can break for parts.

If you need anything just let me know