Type 3 Exhaust Installation ...again!

[Bradders65]

Dear T3 Friends,

I have recently acquired a NOS Lange silencer and tailpipe from the USA for my 1972 FI Notchback. It looks fantastic but before I install I would like to clarify some points (forgive me if I sound stupid but its my first attempt) ….

Q1. Do I need to remove the factory painted grey primer on the silencer fully before painting again with heat rust resistant paint?
A1.

Q2. Can I remove the old silencer/ tailpipe without messing with the upper and lower heat exchangers? Some books say I need to take out the engine if not taking off the upper heater boxes at the same time?
A2.

Q3. The “copper crush rings”, that come with an exhaust installation kit, should be fitted between the silencer and the upper heater boxes when reinstalling? YES or NO?
A3.

Thank you for your patience and time in responding!

Bradders

[miketyp3]

Dear T3 Friends,

I have recently acquired a NOS Lange silencer and tailpipe from the USA for my 1972 FI Notchback. It looks fantastic but before I install I would like to clarify some points (forgive me if I sound stupid but its my first attempt) ….

Q1. Do I need to remove the factory painted grey primer on the silencer fully before painting again with heat rust resistant paint?
A1. I never find the paint applied to the silencers from new corrosion resistant or able to withstand the heat of the exhaust for any period of time. The metal beneath isn't usually that well prepared either, so yes. I think the silencer would last a lot longer if the factory finish was removed, the metal prepared in some way and a more heat resistant finish applied.

Personally, I like to have the old finish removed and metal prepared by sand blasting then have it aluminum sprayed, this is applied with a special gun that sprays molten aluminum from a coil of wire to cover the surface of the steel. I then spray over the top with a heat resistant primer, really that is just for decoration to keep it looking original. It can be re sprayed from time to time to keep it looking fresh.
Other people prefer a ceramic process, or there are paint products I'm sure you've seen that can be applied at home - it depends the cost and what is available to you

Q2. Can I remove the old silencer/ tailpipe without messing with the upper and lower heat exchangers? Some books say I need to take out the engine if not taking off the upper heater boxes at the same time?
A2. Its difficult. Access to the large gland nuts that connect them isn't easy, plus they are usually rusted in. Normal practice is if the old silencer is scrap anyway to remove it whole, cut off the upper heater boxes (through the stubs of the old silencer) and remove what remains of the old silencer using a socket.

Q3. The “copper crush rings”, that come with an exhaust installation kit, should be fitted between the silencer and the upper heater boxes when reinstalling? YES or NO?
A3. YES

Thank you for your patience and time in responding!

Bradders

I hope that helps

[Bradders65]

Dear Mike,

Thanks for that absolutely comprehensive and informative answer. I'm really grateful. Will post my final product once done!

Yours

Bradders

[purplepeter]

You'll need a 1/4" drive socket & extension bar to access the upper nuts on the Heater boxes, but the lower ones can be done with a 13mm Open ended spanner.
Obviously, You'll need New Exhaust gaskets to refit.
It's a lot easier to assemble the Silencer & Heater boxes (with copper crush ring in place) on the ground/Bench before offering it up to the Engine- I've tried replacing the silencer with the boxes still attached to the Engine, But it's seriously difficult to get everything lined up without the crush rings dropping out.
I have had success detaching the 46mm nuts with an Air Chisel on the points of the nut, so if Your silencer is at all retrievable as a spare, Try it!, But As Mike says, it's common practice to cut the stubs & use a socket, even if it feels wrong to be damaging Volkswagen parts !

[Editor]

Practice makes perfect, and after 30 years you get better at it! It was a few years before I realised a socket on thin extension over the top gets to the top nuts easily!

Dose the manifold nuts with plusgas or other derusting lubricant for a day or so, and take care to undo just the nuts, not the studs as well. Don't take chances on breaking a stud - it's not worth the risk of having to remove the high tensile remains from an aluminium head in situ!
Reassemble nuts with copper grease, but don't assume they will come off easily in 10 years time.

The copper crush rings are not readily available, but they are in the proper fitting kits. All the rest can be found in a Beetle fitting kit. Do you have the big-bore tailpipe fitting kit too? I have those if not.

[gracie]

For the crush rings try http://www.sky-craft.co.uk/acatalog/Sky ... skets.html part numberAN900-28.

Pretty sure from memory my source for this was Dave!

BW
Graham

[Editor]

Yes they're used on aircooled aero engines, as well as some motorbikes. I've got some spares here - but you need AN900-22 NOT 28, which would be too big. They need to be about 35mm internal diameter, 41mm external. They're also renumbered MS35769 - 41 (where 41 is OD).

Skycraft charge £6 packing and handling, so if you can't get them locally at a bike shop, I'm happy to send a pair 1st class letter for £2+£1 PP.
Pmail me an address and I'll send you my paypal ID for the £3.

[gracie]

Your right Dave, fat fingered in my excitement to be a small time helper for once!

[Bradders65]

Thanks guys.... Great advice. Found all the bits including the crush rings in a fitting kit from ISP West. They are nearest for me.

Meanwhile I found all the front upper and lower torsion bar bump stops were missing! Got a nice set and am ready to do that job as well. That's another story ...... Looks easy but I'm sure it won't be!

[Editor]

It'll be a lot easier than if all the mounts are rusted, as is normal in the UK! Make sure the metal is sound and clean - maybe paint/spray some zinc-rich primer to keep the rust at bay. Lubricate with a bit of soapy water and push them on. It's warm over there most of the time, I assume, but if not, warming up the bump stops would be helpful.

[Bradders65]

Thanks again Dave .... you've been a great help. And they really are great little cars ... definitely bringing her back to UK when I retire!

[Bradders65]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 8ebc22c8dc

[Editor]

Very shiny! It won't stay like that.

[Bradders65]

All I can say is that you were all right! No matter how much I sprayed rust release , wd40 etc on the two hexagon nuts they would budge. Six hours faffing around.

Now totally pissed off. Even my brand new 46mm wrench wouldn't budge it. Now I know why the previous owner left this job untouched.

Guess the bright part of the day was the easy fitting of the torsion bump stops. Think I might surrender this one to the saw.

[Editor]

Good luck!

[937carrera]

I don't know how practical this is for you, but sometimes the only solution is an oxy-acetylene torch to get sufficient heat to release the rusty nut.

I had a problem with a door pin on a Clio a few years ago. It wasn't going to pass an MOT. I was able to remove the door but could not remove the worn pin to put a new one in. I put the door in the car and took it to a garage who had the O-A torch. 5 minutes later the pin was unscrewed.

[Bradders65]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1440401 ... 372583801/

You are right... The only way to get it off was with extreme heat. Done in the end but a real labour. You can see some of the cars features in the above link.

Thanks again everyone....