Bump Steer

[s.unsworth]

I know it's not a Type 3 or Type 4 but why would our UN LOWERED 1966 Beetle suffer from Bump Steer ?

Fitted 4 New Ball Joints, Track Rod / Tie Rod Ends, Steering Coupling, even a New Steering Box, Steering Damper.

Still suffers from Bump Steer though.

[packers1712]

Bump steer is geometry related not a symptom of worn out parts, there is a comprehensive tutorial in Volksworld from June this year I think showing how to compensate for bump steer as a result of lowering your car.

Doug.

[packers1712]

It's the July copy actually!

[jmarkha1]

whoops - mixing my volkswagens up! - the recommendations were based on type 1 beetle bump steer issues i have dealt with on my bug not the type 3 - sorry for any confusion...


As Doug comments - bump steer its related to the angle the tie rods are due to lowering.
A relatively easy way to improve though - I would:
add caster shims and longer bolts to the lower axle tube to settle the car
drill out tie rod tapers on spindle, flip tie rods using inserts

these 2 things will reduce bump steer a lot and make car less twitchy with increased caster...

[s.unsworth]

Apologies. Major misunderstanding due to my dislexic fingers.

It was supposed to say UN LOWERED '66 Beetle.

Have corrected my spelling now.

Steve

[jmarkha1]

likely to be a combination of the camber nuts needing adjusting (the ones on the ball joints) and tracking.
have you had it aligned?

[s.unsworth]

Garage fitted all the new track rod / tie rod ends and did tracking.

I can check the where the Marks on each Camber Adjuster are pointing.

Think they are supposed to be pointing straight to the front when set correctly.

Have I remembered that right please ?

Steve

[purplepeter]

Yes, that's correct!
Did They replace the Balljoints as well??.. I'm wondering if the Ball joints are incorrectly fitted?

[jmarkha1]

Purplepeter - good point.
I recently changed balljoints on a friends sons beetle - all the balljoints had been randomly pressed into the arms - not aligned to the notches!
Steve - if you jack up the car and check that the camber adjustment nuts are both facing forward and also that balljoint notches on outer edge are aligned to notches on trailing arm ends - you can eliminate the BJoints.
If both look ok - maybe worth adjusting both camber nuts to give negative camber and road test - mark where they are so you have a baseline.

[s.unsworth]

Long, long story with the Ball Joints ! When Chris Gilley had done the ' Body Off ' rebuild and took it for the MOT it failed on 2 Ball Joints he said he must have missed. He fitted 2 new ones. I drove it home from Stockport to Cumbria with steering so tight you could hardly turn it. He said the new Ball Joints would loosen off. I got 4 new German ones from Machine 7. Got the. Pressed in and re fitted the Arms. Steering still very tight. I remembered I had kept a Set of 4 Arms with unworn Grease Nipple Ball Joints from another '66 Beetle I had broken for spares. Cleaned them up, Greased them with new Nipples, Rubber Boots and Clips. Fitted them. They are what have been on for the last 3 or 4 MOTs. Incidentally I mentioned to Machine 7 about the Ball Joints being tight. They said they had a batch of incorrectly manufactured ones of the type I bought, at the time I bought them. They sent me a new Set of 4 Ball Joints FOC. Still in the boxes, as there. Seems to be nothing wrong with the Grease Nipple ones. Oh and yes they are correctly aligned in the Arms. Will check Castor Adjusting Nuts w hen I can.

Steve

[jmarkha1]

sounds like you have been round the houses with the Ball Joints...
so many times you hear about repro stuff being poor compared to stock vw - hope you get the bump steer sorted -