engines
I was trying to think of the little things that need doing - provision of oil filler/dipstick tube, blanking Beetle dipstick tube, rear mounting (if yours is double-joint axle), different size oil-cooler studs. There are a few other things I think, but I can't remember all the details - maybe others here have done it.
For a 2 litre bus engine, you will need mods to support it as the bus hangers are different.
For a 2 litre bus engine, you will need mods to support it as the bus hangers are different.
I'm in the process of putting a 2L bus engine into my 69 411.All tinware needs to be changed and a 215mm flywheel must be used to fit your box (if it is manual).The engine support bar off the old engine MUST BE USED and spaced out to line everything up and to clear the case.The dipstick and filler hole in the 2L case needs to be blocked off and the breather on the top is used to fill the engine with oil.A hole needs to be drilled into the RHS top of the 2L engine to fit a dipstick if you want to check oil (like Porsche 914). It's not really that hard once everything is measured up and the motivation hits you...
All Type 1/2 1600 based engines will require modifying in some way.
Some recons / new units are based on universal cases, so have provision for the Type 3 rear mount and oil filler.
Everything else will require more serious modifications.
Other than that it is the second hand market I'm afraid.
Mike.
Some recons / new units are based on universal cases, so have provision for the Type 3 rear mount and oil filler.
Everything else will require more serious modifications.
Other than that it is the second hand market I'm afraid.
Mike.
engines
hi everyone
thanks for that,why do you have to move the oil filler and dipstick what gets in the way ?
when drilling the case do you have to split it as the shavings might end up inside?
seems it might be easier to go down the rebuild option
jay
thanks for that,why do you have to move the oil filler and dipstick what gets in the way ?
when drilling the case do you have to split it as the shavings might end up inside?
seems it might be easier to go down the rebuild option
jay
The engine support gets in the way(it doesn't fit) with the 2L dipstick/oil filler setup.You don't need to split the case to drill the hole.Just remove the bottom plate which is directly underneath where you are going to drill.You could shove a small piece of plastic tubing up there to catch any metal drillings,which is what I intend to do.It is all a relatively simply transfer.If you have the time to pull off all the tinware and swap it over you only need to block of the filler hole to get it all back in and going (and change the flywheel/clutch).The top part of the solid mound needs to be spaced out 1.5 centimeters and the lower bolts 2 centimeters for the engine mount to clear the housing and be back to where it would normally be with the stock engine.I used washers to do mine as it was easier to get the measurements right.Next time I will make up some alloy blocks as I know how much they need to be stepped out now..You then fill it from the top with 3.5 liters with a new filter.To the right of the breather the case has a shoulder which is where the hole needs to be drilled for a dipstick to be fitted.Shove something in the hole and mark it when you have added the correct amount of oil so you know where it is supposed to be to check it.I'll try and dig out some pictures to make it clearer.....
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/AS0051/Case_hole
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/AS00 ... n_shoulder
look on these links...sorry dunno how to add pictures..Check out my buggy while your there!! There are some 411 pictures as well......
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/AS0051
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/AS0051/Case_hole
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/AS00 ... n_shoulder
look on these links...sorry dunno how to add pictures..Check out my buggy while your there!! There are some 411 pictures as well......
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/AS0051