Balljoint question
Balljoint question
Anyone know how hard it is to change the balljoint on our 64 model notch? Is it something that could be done myself?
Easily!
There isn't the heating up and pressing out you have to do with Type 1 & 2 B/Joints.
To seperate it from the stub axle remove the pinch bolt - be careful as these can be rusted in and shear (they also have an undersized head and are difficult to replace).
Then use a ball joint seperator to part them.
Make a note of the position of the flats and the small groove on the end of the ball joint before you do though it as it is eccentric and is what adjusts the camber angle.
Then all you need to do is remove the big nut holding it in the trailing arm and it should drop out.
Replacement is the reverse of the above, making sure to set the Camber adjustment as it was.
Mike.
There isn't the heating up and pressing out you have to do with Type 1 & 2 B/Joints.
To seperate it from the stub axle remove the pinch bolt - be careful as these can be rusted in and shear (they also have an undersized head and are difficult to replace).
Then use a ball joint seperator to part them.
Make a note of the position of the flats and the small groove on the end of the ball joint before you do though it as it is eccentric and is what adjusts the camber angle.
Then all you need to do is remove the big nut holding it in the trailing arm and it should drop out.
Replacement is the reverse of the above, making sure to set the Camber adjustment as it was.
Mike.
Sounds like it's not the suspension ball-joint, but if you do have to change one anytime, the main nut can be very tight and may need chiselling off if you can't get enough leverage on it and don't have a powerful impact driver. Make sure you have a new nut and wavy washer too.
The pinch-bolt Mike mentioned - you need to pull the two torsion arms towards each other, as they are sprung apart and the pinch bolt threads can get damaged when being removed. I've not used a ball-joint separator on these joints - a wedge (eg cold chisel) works well to spread the pinch-bolt a bit to loosen the taper for removal.
The steering ball joints are easy - sounds like that's what needs doing.
You just need to get the one with the correct thread - the right-hand ends viewed from inside the car are left-hand thread on RHD cars (reversed for LHD cars).
The pinch-bolt Mike mentioned - you need to pull the two torsion arms towards each other, as they are sprung apart and the pinch bolt threads can get damaged when being removed. I've not used a ball-joint separator on these joints - a wedge (eg cold chisel) works well to spread the pinch-bolt a bit to loosen the taper for removal.
The steering ball joints are easy - sounds like that's what needs doing.
You just need to get the one with the correct thread - the right-hand ends viewed from inside the car are left-hand thread on RHD cars (reversed for LHD cars).