I can feel and engine rebuild coming on. 130K miles, and I need to put a litre of oil in after every long motorway run. Hoping to go to Wolfsburg next summer, and I don't fancy 2000 km on that old lump.
I thought I'd throw this one open to see what useful suggestions people have for things to do while the engine is in bits. Much as I'd like to, the following topics are verboten: Megasquirt, turbo, big bore, T4, wild cams etc. Its a stock FI engine so I don't want to up the capacity or do things which will make hard to run the FI. That can all come later on some other car...
I plan to do the following:
- Line bore if necessary
(although some people have said go straight for a new case).
- Remote oil filter.
- New pistons & barrels.
- Get the crank & flywheel balanced for smoothness.
- New valves, guides etc. i.e. freshen up the heads.
- Powder coat all the tin etc. to get it all looking fresh too.
So any other top tips ?
Thanks,
Matt.
Engine rebuild - what should I do ?
I think you have it sorted Matt, I wouldn't do anything more.
Get hold of a copy of the superb "How to hot rod vw engines" by Bill Fisher, it has an excellent chapter on engine blue printing. Although it was written 30 years ago, but is still just as relivent today. If you have trouble I can scan the section and send it to you.
The line bore is as much to "tighten up" manufacturing tolerances (i.e the centre line of the crank not being parallel to the case split line) as it is anything else, so a new case will more than likely need a line bore too.
I don't know, but is a new case suitable for use in a Type 3 anyway?
My half pennys worth...
Mike
Get hold of a copy of the superb "How to hot rod vw engines" by Bill Fisher, it has an excellent chapter on engine blue printing. Although it was written 30 years ago, but is still just as relivent today. If you have trouble I can scan the section and send it to you.
The line bore is as much to "tighten up" manufacturing tolerances (i.e the centre line of the crank not being parallel to the case split line) as it is anything else, so a new case will more than likely need a line bore too.
I don't know, but is a new case suitable for use in a Type 3 anyway?
My half pennys worth...
Mike
question... is it still running with good power, but uses oil? if that is all, you may just need to rering the pistons and hone the cylinders... also, why do you tihnk the heads need attention? is there slop in the valve to valve guide fitting? if you are not abusive to the heads via RPM, they will last an incredibly long time.
64 No'back Speedster
Little Giant Killer III
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Little Giant Killer III
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Yes, its been on my wanted list for ages. Its still available AFAIK, so no problems there.mike wrote:Get hold of a copy of the superb "How to hot rod vw engines" by Bill Fisher ...
Yes it pulls well enough, and can cruise at 80 if I'm brave - too much mechanical sympathy most of the time. A piston & barrel set is only £100 so I wouldn't fiddle around just changing the rings.vwfye wrote:question... is it still running with good power, but uses oil? if that is all, you may just need to rering the pistons and hone the cylinders
32 years of wear, that's all. Haven't opened anything up to check yet. I've only had it the last 4 years, so who knows what abuse the POs have given it!vwfye wrote:also, why do you tihnk the heads need attention? is there slop in the valve to valve guide fitting? if you are not abusive to the heads via RPM, they will last an incredibly long time.
I was just trying to guess the likely / normal things that would be needed.
I'd like a tight fresh motor that I don't have to treat with kid gloves - e.g. can cruise at 80 with a clear conscience!
Matt.
Matt
Just to complicate matters for you, I'm running a 1776cc with stock type three FI. This is pretty much a stock motor. All I've done to get it to work is up the fuel pressure some. I can go into more detail if you're interested. It's a good engine with plenty of torque. Not a tyre burner, but it will run nicely all day long at modern traffic speeds. won't faint at big hills either.
Watch out for costs on the engine build. If you build something with a new case, perhaps some good heads and new most things, you're soon into £2000 territory before you know it. Its easy to push it up to £2500 or more as well! If you purely refurb your old engine, you should be able to keep costs reasonable, say £1000 or less
Craig
Just to complicate matters for you, I'm running a 1776cc with stock type three FI. This is pretty much a stock motor. All I've done to get it to work is up the fuel pressure some. I can go into more detail if you're interested. It's a good engine with plenty of torque. Not a tyre burner, but it will run nicely all day long at modern traffic speeds. won't faint at big hills either.
Watch out for costs on the engine build. If you build something with a new case, perhaps some good heads and new most things, you're soon into £2000 territory before you know it. Its easy to push it up to £2500 or more as well! If you purely refurb your old engine, you should be able to keep costs reasonable, say £1000 or less
Craig
Craig Webb
1972 Variant with 1776cc FI
1968 Beetle needing Resto
1972 Variant with 1776cc FI
1968 Beetle needing Resto
Don't want to up the CC really. No real reason, but somehow I think this car deserves to stay stock.
No problems on the machining front - there's a guy at work with a seriously modified T2 bay who is part of the Raceshack collective. They have full VW machining facilities. I'm going to take all my work to them. He wants to open my case up for 1776 etc. etc. but I'll make damn sure he doesn't!! http://www.raceshack.co.uk/
No problems on the machining front - there's a guy at work with a seriously modified T2 bay who is part of the Raceshack collective. They have full VW machining facilities. I'm going to take all my work to them. He wants to open my case up for 1776 etc. etc. but I'll make damn sure he doesn't!! http://www.raceshack.co.uk/