1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
Hi
I have to replace both lower ball joints on my squareback before this years mot, I have never done this before - where do I start. I have the new ones and a work mate of mine has a press.
Many thanks
Jim
I have to replace both lower ball joints on my squareback before this years mot, I have never done this before - where do I start. I have the new ones and a work mate of mine has a press.
Many thanks
Jim
Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
Hi Jim,
The good news is you won't need to call on your mate with the press, so they are much easier to replace than Beetle ones.
You'll need to seperate the stub axles from the lower torsion arm by completely removing the pinch bolt that clamps it to the ball joint.
Be careful as if this is rusted in it could shear and then you'll have to drill it out.
I usually give the head a good clout with my biggest hammer before I attempt to turn it. The shock helps to loosen the grip of the rust in the threads, but watch the tail of the bolt on the other side as you turn the head. If the socket is moving and the tail of the bolt isn't, stop and get some penatrating oil on it - as you're replacing the ball joint you can get some heat on it as well if you need to.
Before you seperate the axle from the ball joint, make a note of the orientation of the flats on the section of the ball joint that sticks through it.
This sets the wheel camber and is important.
The flats should be in line with the car centre line with the mark to the front (I think... check that last bit), but unless you suspect you have a problem install the new one as you found as the old one.
Once the axle is clear (you can leave it attached to the upper arm and track rods - at least you can with it set at stock ride height) the ball joint is held in by the large thin nut and a spring washer.
I can't remember the size of the nut exactly - I adapted a large spanner I picked up cheap at an autojumble, but its in the 50mm region.
They are not usually a problem to loosen, so if you have nothing else suitable you may get lucky with a large adjustable.
Once you have this off, the ball joint should be loose, however if rust has got a hold then it might need a bit of "gentle" persuasion...
As Haynes says instalation is the reverse of removal - but without all the swearing!
Clean out the socket in the torsion arm of any corrosion, and use a new pinch bolt if you can.
I hope that helps.
Mike
The good news is you won't need to call on your mate with the press, so they are much easier to replace than Beetle ones.
You'll need to seperate the stub axles from the lower torsion arm by completely removing the pinch bolt that clamps it to the ball joint.
Be careful as if this is rusted in it could shear and then you'll have to drill it out.
I usually give the head a good clout with my biggest hammer before I attempt to turn it. The shock helps to loosen the grip of the rust in the threads, but watch the tail of the bolt on the other side as you turn the head. If the socket is moving and the tail of the bolt isn't, stop and get some penatrating oil on it - as you're replacing the ball joint you can get some heat on it as well if you need to.
Before you seperate the axle from the ball joint, make a note of the orientation of the flats on the section of the ball joint that sticks through it.
This sets the wheel camber and is important.
The flats should be in line with the car centre line with the mark to the front (I think... check that last bit), but unless you suspect you have a problem install the new one as you found as the old one.
Once the axle is clear (you can leave it attached to the upper arm and track rods - at least you can with it set at stock ride height) the ball joint is held in by the large thin nut and a spring washer.
I can't remember the size of the nut exactly - I adapted a large spanner I picked up cheap at an autojumble, but its in the 50mm region.
They are not usually a problem to loosen, so if you have nothing else suitable you may get lucky with a large adjustable.
Once you have this off, the ball joint should be loose, however if rust has got a hold then it might need a bit of "gentle" persuasion...
As Haynes says instalation is the reverse of removal - but without all the swearing!
Clean out the socket in the torsion arm of any corrosion, and use a new pinch bolt if you can.
I hope that helps.
Mike
Mike
64 1500S Notchback - RHD Sunroof
66 1600TL Fastback - Pigalle Interior
67 T346 Karmann Ghia - RHD Sunroof
64 1500S Notchback - RHD Sunroof
66 1600TL Fastback - Pigalle Interior
67 T346 Karmann Ghia - RHD Sunroof
- volkswalker
- Posts: 477
- Joined: 6th March 2008 - 4:35pm
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Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
yes great reply!! and i managed to shear both my pinch bolts!!
the socket is 30mm and you will def need a wrec king bar..
here is a pic of the 30mm socket on the upper one
ignore the other two circled bolts thats re lowering
the socket is 30mm and you will def need a wrec king bar..
here is a pic of the 30mm socket on the upper one
ignore the other two circled bolts thats re lowering
we dont stop playing because we get old.... we get old because we stop playing
Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
Ah yes, 30mm... of course. Its been a few years since I've had to do one. That spanner is for Exhaust gland nuts, I remember now.
Mike
64 1500S Notchback - RHD Sunroof
66 1600TL Fastback - Pigalle Interior
67 T346 Karmann Ghia - RHD Sunroof
64 1500S Notchback - RHD Sunroof
66 1600TL Fastback - Pigalle Interior
67 T346 Karmann Ghia - RHD Sunroof
Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
Ah, cheers guys - sounds good. I will give them a soak in WD 40 for a couple of nights before I try.
Thanks again
Jim
Thanks again
Jim
Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
It is very important to preserve the pinch bolts - they are unique to Type 3s, with longer unthreaded shanks than normal, and high tensile (10.8 I think).
You will damage the bolt if you don't compress the two arms together, as the thread will be crushed if you undo it with spring tension still exerted on the arms.
(BTW, the exhaust gland spanner mentioned above is 46mm, the same as a Bay camper rear hub, though an open end spanner would be needed in situ.)
You will damage the bolt if you don't compress the two arms together, as the thread will be crushed if you undo it with spring tension still exerted on the arms.
(BTW, the exhaust gland spanner mentioned above is 46mm, the same as a Bay camper rear hub, though an open end spanner would be needed in situ.)
Dave.
Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
Good point about the bolt.
You can actually make one by buying a longer bolt that has the correct length plain shank and cutting the threaded section down to suit, but yes, it has to be high tensile 10.8 or greater - nothing from screwfix!
I usually support the lower arm with the trolley jack under the shock mount to relieve the spring tension whilst removing the bolt. I'm a bit rusty as it's been a few years since I've needed to do this job, so had forgot to include that detail, but it is important - thanks Dave.
You can actually make one by buying a longer bolt that has the correct length plain shank and cutting the threaded section down to suit, but yes, it has to be high tensile 10.8 or greater - nothing from screwfix!
I usually support the lower arm with the trolley jack under the shock mount to relieve the spring tension whilst removing the bolt. I'm a bit rusty as it's been a few years since I've needed to do this job, so had forgot to include that detail, but it is important - thanks Dave.
Mike
64 1500S Notchback - RHD Sunroof
66 1600TL Fastback - Pigalle Interior
67 T346 Karmann Ghia - RHD Sunroof
64 1500S Notchback - RHD Sunroof
66 1600TL Fastback - Pigalle Interior
67 T346 Karmann Ghia - RHD Sunroof
- volkswalker
- Posts: 477
- Joined: 6th March 2008 - 4:35pm
- Contact:
Re: 1968 Squareback - lower ball joint replace
wow wish id read this a few weeks ago b4 i tried to undo the pinch bolts on the driver side and snapped both clean offEditor wrote:It is very important to preserve the pinch bolts - they are unique to Type 3s, with longer unthreaded shanks than normal, and high tensile (10.8 I think).
You will damage the bolt if you don't compress the two arms together, as the thread will be crushed if you undo it with spring tension still exerted on the arms.
(BTW, the exhaust gland spanner mentioned above is 46mm, the same as a Bay camper rear hub, though an open end spanner would be needed in situ.)
but alas tomorrow im gonna use the jack (good point) and release the tension and then get them out...
good point also using longer bolts and cutting them down this i will have to do also...
everydays a school day!!
we dont stop playing because we get old.... we get old because we stop playing