has anybody got any ideas i am stumped
down to 3 cylinders please help me
down to 3 cylinders please help me
hope somebody can help,my fasty just started running on 3 there was no smoke,noises or anything,checked plugs leads dizzy and points there all good then looked at the rockers they are all moving ok,looked at pushrods they are ok,
has anybody got any ideas i am stumped
has anybody got any ideas i am stumped
Take a look at night - you can sometimes see blue sparks showing a bad plug wire.
Try clipping the timing light on each lead in turn - it may show one not sparking.
Measure resistances of the leads to see if one is open circuit.
Try turning the engine over by hand and listen for odd noises from one compression.
Twin carb? Check the idle cut-off jet wires are both connected.
Try clipping the timing light on each lead in turn - it may show one not sparking.
Measure resistances of the leads to see if one is open circuit.
Try turning the engine over by hand and listen for odd noises from one compression.
Twin carb? Check the idle cut-off jet wires are both connected.
no no no no
hi thanks for that ,have been offered a pair of heads with all the valves in it can i just replace one head or does it have to be a pair ?
do i have to drop the engine or can it be done in situ,
thanks for your help
any idea whats the best exhaust for a fastback
jay
do i have to drop the engine or can it be done in situ,
thanks for your help
any idea whats the best exhaust for a fastback
jay
If they are original heads you might be able to change just one - if not, you may get differences in compression ratio one side to the other.
Ideally you should check the volumes of all the combustion chambers are the same.
It is possible with some care - the later engines with the rear support bar can be lowered a bit to make access slightly easier, but it's not really sensible to try to do it in situ - it's a lot more difficult, and hard to keep things clean (just think how much grit you get in your eye when under the car). If the tinware screws are stubborn (usual), that's easier to sort with the engine out. Using torque wrenches etc is all easier with good access.
The stock silencer is the quietest, and all but the cheapest of pattern types have tuned/matched pipe lengths so they perform well. Unless your engine is bigger than stock 1600, you won't gain much with a 'performance' version. The stock type also fits the rear heat exchangers as designed. However, it may be hard to get one and lots of people have fitted various other units - they will advise you on the best alternative.
Ideally you should check the volumes of all the combustion chambers are the same.
It is possible with some care - the later engines with the rear support bar can be lowered a bit to make access slightly easier, but it's not really sensible to try to do it in situ - it's a lot more difficult, and hard to keep things clean (just think how much grit you get in your eye when under the car). If the tinware screws are stubborn (usual), that's easier to sort with the engine out. Using torque wrenches etc is all easier with good access.
The stock silencer is the quietest, and all but the cheapest of pattern types have tuned/matched pipe lengths so they perform well. Unless your engine is bigger than stock 1600, you won't gain much with a 'performance' version. The stock type also fits the rear heat exchangers as designed. However, it may be hard to get one and lots of people have fitted various other units - they will advise you on the best alternative.
cylinder head
hi
i have no got the engine out and the head off ,it is covered in black gunge
and the plugs and valves on no.3 are sooty any ideas
ps on top of my pistons there stamped 172 and then 854 what are they
cheers
jay
i have no got the engine out and the head off ,it is covered in black gunge
and the plugs and valves on no.3 are sooty any ideas
ps on top of my pistons there stamped 172 and then 854 what are they
cheers
jay
If the black gunge is inside, it sounds like a ring gone allowing oil into the cylinder. Is the bore nice on that cylinder, or scored/scratched?
If it's external, probably your push-rod tube seals are leaking - you'll be replacing those, and probably the tubes.
Clean up the chamber and see if the valves are sealing OK - complete shiny ring on the seat and head.
It's just possible the valve was held open by a lump of carbon or something, but the soot is the lack of proper burning due to the lack of compression.
Any other ideas, gents?
If it's external, probably your push-rod tube seals are leaking - you'll be replacing those, and probably the tubes.
Clean up the chamber and see if the valves are sealing OK - complete shiny ring on the seat and head.
It's just possible the valve was held open by a lump of carbon or something, but the soot is the lack of proper burning due to the lack of compression.
Any other ideas, gents?
lack gunge
hi
thanks for help, i cleaned it all up and piston rings look like they are out of a 1500 or something there was a huge gap,replaced the valves and got someone to lap them in,now its just a case of putting it all back together
if i need anything ill give you a shout
jay
thanks for help, i cleaned it all up and piston rings look like they are out of a 1500 or something there was a huge gap,replaced the valves and got someone to lap them in,now its just a case of putting it all back together
if i need anything ill give you a shout
jay
now were cooking
hi all
just an update,all back in and running better than it ever has,must have been getting worse without me noticing didnt know they where so smooth
only one small niggle i have a rattling small heat exchanger,can i just crank up the big nut,
all praise to vw for making it all so straight forward never would have thought i was capable.
thanks for all your help and advice
jay
just an update,all back in and running better than it ever has,must have been getting worse without me noticing didnt know they where so smooth
only one small niggle i have a rattling small heat exchanger,can i just crank up the big nut,
all praise to vw for making it all so straight forward never would have thought i was capable.
thanks for all your help and advice
jay
If the pipe itself is loose, there may not be a sealing gasket in the joint - you may get away with stuffing silencer paste or bandage in there. You would have to remove the whole asembly you get one in, if you could find a 32-36mm copper crush gasket (there are two in the fitting kit of course, but they're not too readily found, apart from T3D).
Try tightening the big nut - it's 46mm and usually seized solid. I can't usually undo them even with a Bus rear hub socket with 4-foot extension. The special heater box spanner only usually works for tightening. VW requires graphite assembly paste - bet that was often used - NOT!
Try tightening the big nut - it's 46mm and usually seized solid. I can't usually undo them even with a Bus rear hub socket with 4-foot extension. The special heater box spanner only usually works for tightening. VW requires graphite assembly paste - bet that was often used - NOT!