Does anyone happen to know what the throw is on a normal working 411 clutch arm?
I would measure mine, but that would be useless because mine isnt fully working, the master cylinder is half dead and the clutch juuuust about works but even right down to the floor doesnt quiet disengage.
I can measure the trow for the pedal, but anyone happen to know what it is for the clutch arm on the other end?
Thanks
411 clutch slave cylinder throw?
411 clutch slave cylinder throw?
Death to FF!
Just got an old spare clutch slave cylinder out the roof its to tight to push down by hand but the piston cant move more than about 25-30mm or it would have the rubber cover off.
Do you know there are 2 types of slave cylinder fitted one (later) fits in the bell housing the other fit outside which do you have.
If you can wait until the weekend I will put it in the vice and measure dia + stroke for you of the later type.
Ron
Do you know there are 2 types of slave cylinder fitted one (later) fits in the bell housing the other fit outside which do you have.
If you can wait until the weekend I will put it in the vice and measure dia + stroke for you of the later type.
Ron
I posted this on VZI and Moby posted some correct specs.
Since i know the bore and stroke of the master, and the bore of the slave, i can work out the total volume displaced by the master (about 8.55cc of fluid), and since i also now know the stroke of the slave, I can work out how far 8.55cc of fluid would push it, therefore working out its stroke.
This is where it gets a little wierd.
It seems there are two versions, a 22.2mm bore and a 44.5mm bore slave cylinder.
The smaller one has a stroke of about 22mm, but the bigger one only about 5.5mm...
That seems like a tiny amount, but all the numbers add up, 8.55cc of fluid would push a 44.5mm cylinder only 5.5mm or so.
So, the pivot of the clutch lever must be right near the slave cylinder on that model, to convert 5.5mm into useful clutch travel (which is...what? about 40-50mm)? So, i assume, the slave cylinder is about 20mm or so from the pivot of the clutch lever, and the actual release fork is about 200mm or so?
Anyway, iv taken the clutch cylinder off, and for some reason it doesnt seem pitted. That area has been exposed to water, and the cylinder itself is real cruddy, but inside its bore it was just full of gunk but not pitted. So i will try to rebuild it and see what happens.
I worked it out now, sort of. The reason i thought the cylinder was pitted because it leaked, and also the clutch pedal would not return to its end stop unless forced, and felt very rough during that part of its travel. I assume this was because the bore was so pitted that the rubber seal was getting stuck on the pitting on its way out.
But then i took the cylinder off, and it was exactly the same. It seems iv overlooked the two (or three?) big bushes that the clutch master cylinder operating arm rides in. These were rusted and very tight.
They needed to be taken apart, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled really, but that aint going to happen, its bad enough trying to work under the dash as it is, without trying to pull half the steering column/pedal bracket off. So, i just kept spraying release oil on the bushes, and kept moving the pedal, for a good couple of hours. When it was free, i put on light oil instead of release oil, and moved the pedal up and down for about 45 mins or so to work the oil into the bushes (releas oil dries up inside bushes...light oil doesnt).
Now the pedal feels normal and returns to its stop very easily. I think now i will see alot of improvement in the clutch. But will have to wait for the new seals to come.
Since i know the bore and stroke of the master, and the bore of the slave, i can work out the total volume displaced by the master (about 8.55cc of fluid), and since i also now know the stroke of the slave, I can work out how far 8.55cc of fluid would push it, therefore working out its stroke.
This is where it gets a little wierd.
It seems there are two versions, a 22.2mm bore and a 44.5mm bore slave cylinder.
The smaller one has a stroke of about 22mm, but the bigger one only about 5.5mm...
That seems like a tiny amount, but all the numbers add up, 8.55cc of fluid would push a 44.5mm cylinder only 5.5mm or so.
So, the pivot of the clutch lever must be right near the slave cylinder on that model, to convert 5.5mm into useful clutch travel (which is...what? about 40-50mm)? So, i assume, the slave cylinder is about 20mm or so from the pivot of the clutch lever, and the actual release fork is about 200mm or so?
Anyway, iv taken the clutch cylinder off, and for some reason it doesnt seem pitted. That area has been exposed to water, and the cylinder itself is real cruddy, but inside its bore it was just full of gunk but not pitted. So i will try to rebuild it and see what happens.
I worked it out now, sort of. The reason i thought the cylinder was pitted because it leaked, and also the clutch pedal would not return to its end stop unless forced, and felt very rough during that part of its travel. I assume this was because the bore was so pitted that the rubber seal was getting stuck on the pitting on its way out.
But then i took the cylinder off, and it was exactly the same. It seems iv overlooked the two (or three?) big bushes that the clutch master cylinder operating arm rides in. These were rusted and very tight.
They needed to be taken apart, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled really, but that aint going to happen, its bad enough trying to work under the dash as it is, without trying to pull half the steering column/pedal bracket off. So, i just kept spraying release oil on the bushes, and kept moving the pedal, for a good couple of hours. When it was free, i put on light oil instead of release oil, and moved the pedal up and down for about 45 mins or so to work the oil into the bushes (releas oil dries up inside bushes...light oil doesnt).
Now the pedal feels normal and returns to its stop very easily. I think now i will see alot of improvement in the clutch. But will have to wait for the new seals to come.
Death to FF!
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TYPE IV estate
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Jane Terry
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Re: 411 clutch slave cylinder throw?
regarding clutch slave cylinders for the 411 the difference is that the 411L the first twin carbed model has a completely different gearbox to all the other type 4's and is fitted to the side of the gearbox whereas all the other Type 4's have the slave cylinder mounted on top of the gearbox. A 411L gearbox will not fit the other type 4's as it is an inch shorter. Also it will not fit later type 4's.
Re: 411 clutch slave cylinder throw?
hello,,if you look for the small model,,on68-69-many kits are for sale,,or complet on ,,the samba,, if you look for the big model 44.50 mm, i have look in différent katalog,, and i have see many farm tractor in europe use the same diamiter,, and ,,daf,, sale the big rubber boot,,for the rear well cylinder,,on her truck,, the dust seal,,, the pn.k4450,,made by fag,,but i know many tractor use the cluth slave 44.5 mm.