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PostPosted: 30th October 2016 - 6:13pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
So I've recently purchased a lovely white fastback.

I drove it back home from oxford some 130 miles and it's gone straight in to my garage for a winter tidy up.

It looks like a relatively strong car, and has had plenty of work done on it. There are signs of welding patch work, and has had a full respray at some point.

Over winter 2016, I'm going to tackle the floor pan, suspension and engine. Fit new carpets and get the interior re-upholstered, ready to show in 2017. In winter 2017, I'll do a body re-spray.

So this weekend I started stripping her down, ready for a clean up and paint.

On 5 ton axle stands:

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Fuel tank removed

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Front slamworks narrowed beam, steering box and tie rod arms removed.

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Next I'll be removing the interior to see what it's like under the carpet.


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PostPosted: 20th November 2016 - 9:41pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
A couple of weeks ago I stripped out the interior.

Bad news was then bestowed upon me when the removal of the carpet unveiled a peppered floor, specifically the drivers rear footwell.

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PostPosted: 20th November 2016 - 9:49pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
So this last couple of weeks I have been pondering what to do.

I have decided to do a body off restoration, and invest a bit more money than I had previously budgeted for.

So, over the next few months I shall be:

1. Repairing the floor pan. Using cut up repro beetle floor pans.
2. Re-painting the floor pan, subframes, beams and IRS.
3. Renewing all brake lines, fuel lines.
4. Replacing the front discs (Cross drilled) 5x130 pattern, bearings, calipers etc. (Machine 7 kit)
5. Replacing the rear drums for a CSP disc kit
6. Replacing the master cylinder
7. New accelerator and clutch cables.
8. Engine strip down and clean. Full engine EMPI gasket set. Paint all metal work. New fixings.
9. Repair rot in the rear quarters.
10. Replace heater channels (Or just inner sills) and outer sills.
11. Replace chrome trim.
12. Re-paint body shell.
13. Re-build.
14. Re-trim of interior.
15. New carpet
16. New wheels.

That's it for now it think.


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PostPosted: 20th November 2016 - 9:53pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
This weekend it's been busy.

I removed the engine, split off gearbox and put engine on a stand ready for clean, strip down.

All wings removed.

Body split off pan.

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PostPosted: 20th November 2016 - 9:55pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
Found lots of rot in both rear arches below the engine mounts. It's superficial, so a few metal plates here and there will tidy it all up nicely.

The front was pretty much spot on, has had lots of previous work so I don't think I need to touch it, other than a sand down and paint when the time comes.


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PostPosted: 20th November 2016 - 11:11pm 
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Joined: 25th July 2006 - 9:02pm
Posts: 444
Location: Surrey
Fast work muddy - nice one.
keep up that pace and you'll get thru the rebuild this winter.

keep the photos coming - cant beat a good resto thread...

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PostPosted: 21st November 2016 - 7:24pm 
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Joined: 10th January 2012 - 3:34am
Posts: 976
Location: Doncaster UK.
looks a nice solid shell, always a good start! and working at my pace too, I like to get jobs done and not hang about!

Mark.

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my 1968 Fastback Automatic build thread
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PostPosted: 13th June 2017 - 9:43pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
Apologies for not updating. I spent most of winter doing bits and bobs but didn't really progress the restoration.

Anyhow, I've been busy the last couple of months.

So here are some pics of the repairs carried out on the floor pan. Some edges have been replaced and repaired. Passenger side rear floor replaced, i used a karma ghia floor section. I couldn't justify £500 a pan half from C&C. 90% of the pan was solid.

I've wire wheeled the whole floor pan down to bear metal.

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PostPosted: 13th June 2017 - 9:52pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
So floor pan wire wheeled down to bare metal.

Rear sub frame removed and wire wheeled.

Front beam wire wheeled.

All treated to POR15 metal prep to treat the metal and any remaining rust. Great stuff, used it before on a rat rod resto mod. Also treated with Fertan rust treatment.

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PostPosted: 13th June 2017 - 9:59pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
2 weekends ago I started the first phase of painting.

Floor pan, rear subframe, front beam and fuel tank all painted with POR 15 semi gloss rust protection. This stuff is awesome if you've prepped properly. It sets like stone, doesn't let any moisture in, so the rust cannot grow.

Once I get another good weekend, I need to do the reverse side of the floor pan. Then the underneath will get a stone chip layer using Upol gravitex and then finally everything will get a gloss black top coat.

[img][img]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j153/craigmudd/VW%20Type%203%20Fastback/Strip%20down/IMG_3823.jpg[/img]
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PostPosted: 14th June 2017 - 7:35am 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
Last weekend I stripped down the engine.

Everything is now off it, tinware needs cleaning and de-rusting.

An elring gasket set has been used and as many seals that I could replace have been replaced. So hopefully it will be leak free when it's re-built.

Going to hopefully paint the tin ware, starter motor, dynamo, top of engine block and fan shroud this coming weekend.

Here some strip down pics:

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PostPosted: 15th June 2017 - 7:37pm 

Joined: 23rd September 2016 - 5:23pm
Posts: 22
Another update. Been busy tonight.

This week I've been prepping the engine tin ware and accessories ready to be painted.

Tonight have treated everything to POR15 metal prep and painted with gloss black engine enamel. Had to battle a against the wind tonight though.

I'll finish everything off tomorrow night, will be painting the engine block (top of it) and the fan shroud.

hopefully get the engine built back up this weekend.

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Bits ready to be painted
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Painting area
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Painted
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PostPosted: 21st June 2017 - 1:23am 
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Joined: 10th October 2004 - 8:52pm
Posts: 5324
Location: Pensford, Bristol
The foam on top of the oil cooler is important for making the air flow through the fins rather than over the top in the gap between the tinware and cooler. I'm not sure of the spec on that.

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