1971 Type 3.

For Type 3 and 4 restoration projects, interesting history, adventure trips etc
jake@facewest.co.uk
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1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 28th May 2018 - 8:20pm

So I've had a bit of time to check out my new purchase.

It was Chino's, then he sold it to a guy who left it outside. It has a very leaky window seal, and the door drains were plugged so it looks like it got a little wet. It's totally dry now, and no lasting damage done as far as I can tell. Floorpans good and the doors are fine. Chino filled them with anti rust stuff thankfully. She is garaged now so should all be good.

I've ordered a new chrome strip and window rubber (Ouch) to fix the leaky window. And cleared all the drains on both doors.

Had a good look around and already done a few jobs.

Air Box drains checked, door drains cleared.

Fixed the noisy speedo. (Cable just needed Greasing)
Worked out how the heating vents all work, and fixed the heating and fresh air vents. Hanging upside down under the dash is required here.

Gave the car a good clean, paint looks great from 10 yards, but will need a respray to get it looking perfect. Maybe tackle that next year.
Made a new Rear Trunk liner as that was perished. (Used some spare Rubber matting I had lying around.)

Jobs to do:
Get it raised to a bit more stock and get Front suspension sorted.
Needs a new mounting bracket for the rear wing at the back. This is rattling a lot over small bumps..
Oil Service / Tappets / Timing etc.

Here's a picture from today.


Image

So just one question if any one can help here please:
The gear shifter / transmission tunnel is a bit noisy when driving. I'm hoping this can be adjusted or fixed with new bushings. It's just transferred noise / vibration from the gearbox I think. Gearchange is good. Anyone done this, is it easy / did it reduce the noise / vibration? It's got an EMPI shifter. Could that be part of the issue?

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 28th May 2018 - 8:50pm

The rivets in those empi shifters can got slack. Take the cover off the base and you will soon see if the nylon blocks moving around when you move the stick. Its not there is a bush in the tunnel which is a couple of quid and each to change
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Jamesq123
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by Jamesq123 » 28th May 2018 - 9:11pm

I had the same when I had an empi in mine... Changed it for an original... So much nicer to use. Nice fastback btw

jake@facewest.co.uk
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 28th May 2018 - 10:11pm

Jamesq123 wrote:
28th May 2018 - 9:11pm
I had the same when I had an empi in mine... Changed it for an original... So much nicer to use. Nice fastback btw
Thanks. Is the stock shifter the same as the Beetle one? Can't see why not but thought I'd check.

Like this (In type 3 category but says it is for beetle:)
https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_b ... t_Rod.html

jake@facewest.co.uk
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 28th May 2018 - 10:13pm

broady_6 wrote:
28th May 2018 - 8:50pm
The rivets in those empi shifters can got slack. Take the cover off the base and you will soon see if the nylon blocks moving around when you move the stick. Its not there is a bush in the tunnel which is a couple of quid and each to change
Thanks. Just reading around and it looks like it's a bit of a mission to replace the bush in the tunnel on a beetle / KG. Is it easier on a 71 T3? Looks like some T3's have a inspection hatch to make it easier, but not sure if mine would. I'll take a look when I take up the carpet next.

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 28th May 2018 - 10:45pm

If its your first time then it'll take some time.but its not a big effort. There's a small access panel in the front valence, and again in the frame head. Then under the nose of the gearbox at the back there's another panel, get them all undone and you've got the hard bit done. Have a look at my thread. My car is in nut and bolt bits so you can see everything
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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 12th August 2018 - 10:54am

How have you got on?
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jake@facewest.co.uk
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 28th August 2018 - 6:32pm

Hi Broady, sorry not checked in for a while.

All going well, car is running great now it's a bit higher and new front beam arms fitted. No longer feels like my teeth are going to fall out.

Rattle was coming from broken Disc Shields, got these welded up and now it's a lot quieter to drive. The noise from the gear tunnel has reduced, or maybe I've got used to it so going to leave it alone for now.

Fitted new chrome window trim and scraper, so now it's fully waterproof, although I won't take it out if it's wet!

Really happy with it. It's such an event to drive compared to modern cars. Stock engine is really good, seems to have fair bit more power than my old KG. I guess 64bhp vs 50bhp is a big difference.

I'll add some photos of it at it's new ride height soon.

Cheers

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 31st August 2018 - 9:56pm

Great work! small refinements like those are what make these cars a pleasure to drive. I drive a lot and a variation of classic cars each have their own charms but anyone can be spoiled by a small rattle or funny ride ect no matter what the car.

I always thought the twin port twin carb 1600 was 54hp! but Ive just looked in my bentley book. theyre 54hp DIN (not the standard most people work to, its an old German method of measuring hp) and 65hp SAE (there are a few variations on this but its what is universally used, well relatively was we all know is Kw these days)

So there we have it, ive just gained 11hp with out touching my engine :D
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937carrera
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by 937carrera » 31st August 2018 - 11:09pm

Isn't that SAE gross, rather than SAE net ?
David
1974 412LS Variant
1973 412LE 4 door Fastback / Saloon

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 31st August 2018 - 11:36pm

Yep, it spured some interest this evening and looked it up. So were back down to 54hp again. 65 is just an american pipe dream.

Roughly equivalent to the power of 3 kettles
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937carrera
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by 937carrera » 1st September 2018 - 7:13am

broady_6 wrote:
31st August 2018 - 11:36pm

Roughly equivalent to the power of 3 kettles
Nah, 20 kettles, 54 * .736 = 39.7 kW.

Mid you, when I say kettles I mean pre EU interference kettles before the output becomes limited to "reduce energy consumption". Funny, the water molecules still require the same energy input to raise their temperature. :roll:

Time for a sexy kettle piccy, full power 2kW version :)

Image

Parents had a 1972 type 3 at one point, it seemed to go well enough.

Very much looking forward to some updated pictures of the car. ;)
David
1974 412LS Variant
1973 412LE 4 door Fastback / Saloon

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 1st September 2018 - 9:47am

I dont know why, I had it my head that kettles were 13Kw rather than 3Kw. Which was obviously outdated anyway as theyre now 2Kw
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937carrera
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by 937carrera » 1st September 2018 - 8:27pm

Plugs are 13a, which means max draw of just over 3kw. Kettles are currently about 2kw... proposals to reduce that, like vacuum cleaners.

Sorry to the OP for the thread diversion, at least it was a car related kettle, let's get another update and get back on topic. :thumbsup:
David
1974 412LS Variant
1973 412LE 4 door Fastback / Saloon

jake@facewest.co.uk
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 11th October 2018 - 9:23pm

Dammit, I've lost some horsepower then.

So 54hp it is.

Fasty is running really well, been to a show in the Dales and been using it couple of times a week. Really enjoying it. Nothing going wrong yet, just a noisy regulator so ordered a new one. Will give it a service this weekend.

Couple of pics of it's new ride height:


Image

Image

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937carrera
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by 937carrera » 11th October 2018 - 10:12pm

jake@facewest.co.uk wrote:
11th October 2018 - 9:23pm
Dammit, I've lost some horsepower then.
Nah, you never had it.

Car's looking tidy and she'll be enjoying the regular runs :)
David
1974 412LS Variant
1973 412LE 4 door Fastback / Saloon

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MID WEST DUBBER
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by MID WEST DUBBER » 12th October 2018 - 11:06am

Looks great!

jake@facewest.co.uk
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 13th October 2018 - 7:06pm

Hi,

Changed the regulator, no more clicking.

Had a rummage about the heating system. Now got a few questions for the experts! Crikey it looks complex. I think I understand most of it but:

Car has a aftermarket exhaust, sounds great but is has messed up some of the way the heating ducting works, just thought I'd check a few things:

Firstly the cool air pipes that run to the mxing box in front of the heat exchangers. These are not connected at the back of the car, they are just open. Originally I guess they would have a cool air supply from the fan, but no idea where to connect them to now. It's a small dimater pipe. Should I just block them as if left open (as they are) presumably when the themerostat thinks the heating air is too hot then the air flow might reverse and hot air come out into the engine bay.

Second the Air cleaner has a hose connection with nothing going to it. I think this is for the air cleaner to take air from when it's cold. At the moment it's not connected to anything. (Although it's sited just above the exhaust pipe so does get a bit warm I suppose). Is this likely to be an issue.


Thanks if any one has any input on either issue.

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 14th October 2018 - 3:16pm

You are correct regarding those two small heating hoses. Look after the card tube as its hard to get hold of so if you ever wanted it in the future then youve already got some. Best bet is to remove it from the mixer boxes and put some rubber/metal caps on there to stop the hot air flow as you say.

What they would connect too will have been removed when the after market exhaust was fitted. Item 40 below.

Image

Can you post a photo of the air cleaner stub, I expect its the engine case vacuum. The air filter cold air intake is the back panel of the car which is fed through the rear wings
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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 14th October 2018 - 5:05pm

Just found this too Image
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kinga
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by kinga » 14th October 2018 - 9:30pm

Nice looking fasty..but if u fancy changing them gas burners give me a shout.

jake@facewest.co.uk
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by jake@facewest.co.uk » 15th October 2018 - 8:45pm

Broady: Thaks for the pic and diagram, makes sense now.

Kinga: Happy with the wheels for now! Thanks.

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broady_6
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by broady_6 » 15th October 2018 - 9:26pm

Most welcome, do let us know the result!
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Chino
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by Chino » 16th October 2018 - 6:02pm

I may be able to shed some light here... If I'm following correctly, when the Cyclone Exhaust (I've never seen another one of these for a Type 3 BTW Jake!), high temp orange ducting was used to connect everything back up again...whether or not this has gone wandering between the time it left me and found you is another question. If you mean the smaller pipes...no idea, they were never connected on the exhaust before the Cyclone.
The air cleaner has intake underneath that connects to the tin ware for warm air. Funnily enough the necessary piece of tinwear and the corerct clamp went along with the car(I found the parts but never got round to fitting), I'm guessing they have gone before you got hold of it too? PurplePeter actually found thes patrs for me, so may be better equipped to tell you how they connect.

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purplepeter
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Re: 1971 Type 3.

Post by purplepeter » 17th October 2018 - 8:46am

The warm air intake pipe I found for Chino was item 2 here; http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/type3/T3pbo/T3pb1-60.htm
attached to item 4 here (lower fan housing outlet duct) http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/type3/T3pbo/T3pb1-36.htm
It's one of those things.. If You have the 2 items attached to each other already, you can slip them into position fairly easily, once the front (as you look at it) section of the fanhousing is off. But, if the duct is already on the engine, then You can't simply attach the pipe, as the engine support bar is in the way of the screw, so complete fanhousing & support bar have to come off.

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