My '65 1500S NotchBack

[yachtybugger]

Hi Guys & Gals

Here's a few piccies of my '65 Notch. Most of you will recognise it as Brian Burrows car which was featured in Volksworld last Year. I bought it in June this year at VWoodstock and took it to BugJam and VW Action. She has had a new Turbo Thomas stainless exhaust, a Berg Bus shifter and genuine vent trims fitted since I've had her.

I have just driven this car 1248mls in 3 days from Chester to Mallorca via Southampton/Dover/Calais/Barcelona without major problems.

The starter solenoid decided to stick on when the motor was hot meaning I had to leave the engine running or use the old screwdriver trick across the terminals to turn her over but apart from that she was sweet And the berg bus shifter makes for a real comfy driving position as you can rest your arm on it whilst driving

She is staying out here for 12 months with me but coming back to the UK next year.

BugJam

Thats Glenn's notch next to her at BugJam, which won Best Type3 and is currently for sale

VWAction

A few personal accessories to give it my personal touch.

Mallorca

Home Sweet Home

No big plans for her at the moment although a change of wheels and discs to wide 5 and OG Sprints may be possible soon. Other than that, its just a case of rigging up the parking lights to work, new interior light, passenger door mirror and fit the popouts which are in the boot. I also have an Australian rear window blind and NOS door edge protectors to fit.

[type3]

Definitley a sweet Notch. Perfect stance. :-)


cheers,
type3

[Editor]

That sticky starter motor trick eh? It gets us all eventually. The rich people change the starter motor and say that was the problem, the canny clean the commutator and brush area thoroughly, ensure the gear slides freely on the shaft and re-install, getting many more years of use from it. The belt and braces guys also fit a relay to operate the solenoid indirectly - kind of like a relay to power another relay really! Try saying that fast.

It does also reduce the load on the starter switch, which is not cheap to replace, and is getting hard to find for the older ones. I reckon it's a good mod to make for the cost of a 30amp relay. There's a connector in the solenoid wire under the seat or near the battery on RHD (not sure if it's elsewhere in LHD) which is an easy connection for the relay activation from the starter switch, with the other end taking the power from the battery to the solenoid via the relay contacts.

There's info on cleaning the starter at http://www.hallvw.clara.net/starter.htm.
I must work up a diagram to show the way to install a relay.
Dave.

[Matthew]

Nice car!
When my old '75 beetle started doing this (usually at motorway services) I took to carrying a plastic headed mallet in the car. If you reach under the RHS and tap the solenoid a few times, it can usually be persuaded to start again. Less "sparky" than the screwdriver approach.

[yachtybugger]

I think I've started it once to many times with the screwdriver because, whereas before it would start with the key once I'd turned it over with the screwdriver for a second, now, it won't start with the key at all whether it be cold, hot or somewhere inbetween

I'll not be able to take it off before the weekend but I'll let you know what I find

Thanks for the advice

[type3]

I used a bit of Brasso on my Fastbacks commutator to clean it up, worked a treat. :-)


cheers,
type3

[Editor]

If the idiot light dims as you turn the key to start, all should be well with the switch. If it doesn't dim, the starter switch could be the problem.

Hopefully, it's just the motor that needs a clean and a bit of light lubrication.

Otherwise it could be the starter motor bushing in the bell-housing. Check it when you have the starter motor out.

Is it 6volts? The bushing is different from 12volt.

[yachtybugger]

OK, Had a few spare minutes yesterday so I whipped out the starter and had a looksee lastnight. This is what I found

It didn't seem that dirty to me but I gave it a clean until it looked like this

Everythings been greased and put back together and I'm waiting for the rain to stop so I can put it back in and give it a go
Ed, the ignition lights do dim when the key is turned which is good. There is also a small click from the solenoid which I take as a good sign so hopefully the clean up will allow power to continue on its merry way and we'll be off
More Later

[Editor]

Let's hope it's OK - the brushes tend to stick in the holders if there's muck around - you seem to have a reasonable amount of brush left - they should be clear above the top of the holders to allow the springs to still act on them.
Make sure you get a look at the bushing area - the hole should look round, and the motor shaft a reasonable fit in it (not sure how easy it is to check that!). It acts as a front bearing for the motor. If it gets badly worn, the armature isn't suported properly, and touches the motor housing instead and can stick.

Dave.

[yachtybugger]

OK, I'm going to seem a bit daft to you experienced mechanic type chaps but..............its my first time working on a type 3 and a starter ....

I put the starter back in. Got a really good solenoid click on and off but nothing else
Tried the screwdriver trick but that didn't work this time either.....just a load of sparks, the on and off click but no motor noise....not even a whirring
Thought I may have put the thrust washer and isolating washer on the wrong way so whipped it out again but this time as I was taking the main cover off, the armature came away from the drive pinion and 10 little ball bearings fell out with it


I managed to put it back together but the armature wants to keep falling back out of the drive pinion! (bear with me!)
I was a bit p***ed off by this time so took my assembled parts down to the local Vdub specialist and was told its from a Kubelwagen
A phone call to T3D and its diagnosed as an automatic T3 starter with a self supporting drive pinion which makes more sense as its stamped 12V.
Take a look at this picture and tell me whats wrong with it

There's no main shaft beyond the drive pinion which normally locates in the bush in the bell housing (which has obviously caused me much confusion when reading mr haynes and these posts)
To cut a long story a wee bit shorter, I have now 'borrowed' the correct Bosch starter which fitted perfectly (suitably greased) and worked first time; but I would really like to fix the auto starter.
Has anyone got a weblink/diagram for an auto T3 starter?

BTW Dave; the bush's have loads left and lots of tension on the springs.

[Editor]

Never had an auto starter apart. So yours is converted to 12V.

They get round the bush not being the same for 12V as for 6V - the 6V starter motor is fatter (I think it's that way round) in the shaft, so the bush has a (bigger?) hole - by fitting a 12V auto starter.



If the bearing came apart, it can damage the field coils that are wrapped in the inside of the casing and very close to the armature. You could try some measurements with a test meter - they will be near zero as they are quite thick copper pieces, but shouldn't be a dead short. to the casing or open circuit.

You may need to get a recon auto starter as you are probably now making use of the old 6V bush (ring shaped insert) in the bell-housing with the normal starter in there. I don't know how long that will be OK for. Maybe you've got the 12V bush - you need to find out if you intend to continue to use it.
Dave (feeling in the dark a bit!).

[yachtybugger]

OK, I'll check the bushing in the bell housing just to be sure but I believe the box was changed for a later model at the time of the 12V conversion.

Those field coils are not damaged but are very grey and dirty. Should they be gleaming copper like the commutator aswell?

BTW, managed to figure out refitting the armature in the drive pinion. Just needed to push the drive ring (connected to the solenoid arm) down further so the shaft could seat in the bearings properly

Getting there but don't I wish I'd never started

[Editor]

Best not to touch the field coils - I'm not even sure I took a look when pulling my starter apart. If they're dirty, it shows they weren't touched by the armature - that's good.

If the tranny is later, that should be OK. Surprising to change to the auto starter if so - maybe working to a formula. Is it still swing axle, or does it now have CV joints etc?

I suppose the car not starting meant you had to instead!

[yachtybugger]

Yeah, its still swing axle. Rumour has it the auto starters are more torquey and less prone to problems when hot If so, i must have a duff one

I've got it all back together now and will try it again manana.

Thanks for the help and advice.

[Editor]

Auto starters are rated slightly higher (0.8hp instead of 0.7hp I think).

I suppose as problems can arise in the bushing, it would make the auto ones marginally more reliable as they don't use the bushing. The pre-engaging mechanism relies on brush contact being good, and that certainly is the same for both.

Before cleaning mine out, on motorway or other long journeys I used to just turn the starter again straight after turning off, and then it usually restarted fine after cooling down again, while it tended not to otherwise.
There's definitely something that happens when cooling down that tapping the casing corrects - hence the people lying undrneath and tapping the starter with a hammer. It often works after that, but you end up having to do it more and more frequently - as you did with the screwdriver.
Here's to success in the morning.
Dave.

[yachtybugger]

Yeh......just back from the garage where the guy tested it for me and guess what, it works

I still think the solenoid is a bit dodgy so will change it for a new one but my first dabble with a starter can be classed as successful I also think my first attempt would have worked if I had refitted the isolator and thrust washers the right way around

Many thanks for the help and advice

[yachtybugger]

Look what turned up today after almost 4 weeks

Cost £116 including shipping from Oz and import duty
Now I can have a bit of rearview privacy Amazing how exposed you feel in a notch with all that glass around; especially when you're used to sitting in a Karmann Kab with its tiny oval rear window

[yachtybugger]

Been a bit slack with the updates so thought I'd let you know and see some of the changes I've made.

First off, the Turbo Thomas stainless axhaust. Custom built to my spec. The merged headers didn't quite work out as planned as I wanted the merged manifold tucked up behind the rear valance. This will be rectified soon



Fitted the rear window blind aswell.


And added a front and rear empi bumper bar.

You can see the rear one in the blind piccy above.

Also fitted a Berg Bus shifter which is a bit different but turns out to be an inspired move as it serves at a great armrest whilst autobahn cruising Probably not everyones cup of tea but I can highly recommend it......even if its just for the looks you get at traffic lights

[yachtybugger]

I managed to locate some NOS original 'Heck' vent trims aswell but when they arrived, the front set was incomplete so I fitted some repro ones to make up the front set until more NOS jobbies can be found

I decided to get an earlier set of Porsche Fuchs wheels aswell. The new ones are early deep 6" on the rear and ultra hard to find genuine 4.5" on the front. Had them fully polished at Rainbow polishing in Brum.


You can also see in these pics, the NOS genuine front and rear stoneguards which Puppy at T3D managed to locate. Didn't stay NOS for long

Maybe the best thing I've done this year is lose that bleak and miserable grey velour interior. I decided to go for a two tone theme finished in Ruby red vinyl to match the paintwork and cream to match the headliner. The carpet is Mercedes material also called Ruby Red. I desided to have the doorcards retrimmed aswell but keeping the original armrests etc etc.

[yachtybugger]

A few other bits and bobs include changing the Flat4 steering wheel to an original Empi GTV, fitting a fender flagpole and genuine VW rain deflectors plus a set of vent breezies. I also fitted some mooneyes tribars on the headlights.


And fitted some VWoA type 3 door edge guards I found on the samba.com


My latest touch was adding the rear popouts. These are made up of original glass, NOS frames from T3D, new seals and rechromed latches. The latch knobs are '67 only chrome metal ones, located in Germany and rechromed. How happy was I to cut into the headlining and find screw fittings in place and to remove the windows and find the correct recesses in situ?



I also fitted some new matching ruby red seatbelts from custom and commercial in both the front and rear. Rears are visible above.

The car currently looks like this







Although plans are afoot to fit a new 12v 2 speed wiper mech and switch and rig the parking lights as indicators. I also have a sheet of checkerplate for under the decklid and I'm hoping to get the engine out over the winter and spruce up the engine bay to the same standard as the outside and interior.

[Editor]

Now that's impressive - wouldn't bother to do all that to any of my cars, as I've never been one for decorations. I can appreciate the effort though, and it all goes together well, and at least Paul at T3D will be able to afford a bit more globe-trotting for parts now.

Well done!

[swamp]

this notch has to be one of the most stunning around! everyting is right about it!

[lordchris]

Love the Look :P
i just got myself a notch....where abouts are u getting these typ3 accessories from?
chris

[DongKG]

Hi Guys & Gals

Here's a few piccies of my '65 Notch. Most of you will recognise it as Brian Burrows car which was featured in Volksworld last Year. I bought it in June this year at VWoodstock and took it to BugJam and VW Action. She has had a new Turbo Thomas stainless exhaust, a Berg Bus shifter and genuine vent trims fitted since I've had her.

I have just driven this car 1248mls in 3 days from Chester to Mallorca via Southampton/Dover/Calais/Barcelona without major problems.

The starter solenoid decided to stick on when the motor was hot meaning I had to leave the engine running or use the old screwdriver trick across the terminals to turn her over but apart from that she was sweet And the berg bus shifter makes for a real comfy driving position as you can rest your arm on it whilst driving

She is staying out here for 12 months with me but coming back to the UK next year.

BugJam

Thats Glenn's notch next to her at BugJam, which won Best Type3 and is currently for sale

VWAction

A few personal accessories to give it my personal touch.

Mallorca

Home Sweet Home

No big plans for her at the moment although a change of wheels and discs to wide 5 and OG Sprints may be possible soon. Other than that, its just a case of rigging up the parking lights to work, new interior light, passenger door mirror and fit the popouts which are in the boot. I also have an Australian rear window blind and NOS door edge protectors to fit.

"Ang ganda ng Type 3 mo!" (that is in Pilipino). In English, "Your Type 3 is beautiful!" I like the Fucsh wheels with the combination of small and big tires (or tyres). (Pardon my English because Filipinos are used to American style English.).

How do you classify your type 3, Resto-Custom or Cal-look?

I am currently restoring a 1970 Fastback here in the Philippines. We just installed the engine. Fortunately, I was able to complete the type 3 engine wares. The block I used came from a type 2 an AS-21 block, actually. So we did not find it hard to place the hanger of the type 3.

To tell you the truth, type 3 Volktswagens are rare in the Philippines, although, there are a few type 3's within our club and some other parts of the Philippines.

But I have not seen picture of the engine of you notch. Or may be, I just missed it.

Please check out the thread I made for our type 3 fastback and give me some inputs on the proper restoration.

viewtopic.php?t=812

Thanks.

[desi type3]

hi i have had my notch over a year and i didnt know this page exsisted nice to see my car all over the place,still has 90% ov the goodies aswell