412 Variant estate build.

[Ant B]

It's wet again and as my air cooled outside workshop is out of bounds, it was shed time.

Blower box strip down.


Flaps out.


Box all cleaned up now.
What foam did they use on the flaps for seals?
Tony.

[Ant B]

rhd manual pedal assembly turned up (thanks Danny)
Just need to get it apart now, seems a little bit stuck.
cant see any split pins holding the clutch shaft inplace, so I think it is just rusted up.
letting it soak in penetrating oil for the night and will beat the living daylights out of it tomorrow.

[Ant B]

Lets see...
Today I cut the front of the blower box off, it is a little bit rusty.


The back of the box will need fixing as well.


Then I finished welding up the bottom of the passenger door.


We plod on slowly.

[Ant B]

Whats with all the factory filler in the blower box...sheeesh.
Anyway, I chipped all that out to reveal more rust, looks like I have replace the back of the box as well.


I take it I have to drop the fuel tank out to get behind the box.
To drop the fuel tank you have to drop all front axle and suspension...good design VW

Oh well these things are sent to try us.

Tony

[Dave Summers]

I do like the Type 4 but removing the tank is one of the jobs that would most make you wish it was a Type 3. I've got to take the tank out of my Mk2 Polo, and it'll be interesting to decide if it's worse than the Type 4. (Changing the spark plugs on your car will make you thankful it's not a Type 3, but that won't feel like sufficient compensation at the moment!) Hopefully the subframe will come off easily. Ironically, on the ones I've broken the subframe bolts have all come out with no problem, but on my project car they were seized. Once the subframe and the fuel pump are out of the way, taking the tank out should be simple. It's quite a tight fit but if you've lifted the car high enough you'll be able to pull it out.
The hole you've cut in the front of the box (although I like going with John Muir's dictum "front means front", i.e. always referring to the front of the car, regardless of the part) will help with the access, but the trickiest part will be to repair the drain area without creating a water trap.
An advantage of removing the petrol tank is that you'll be able to give the bodywork around it a good coating of paint or rustproofing. You'll have good access to see the state of the petrol pipes too where they emerge from the floorpan.

[Ant B]

Thanks for your reply.
just hope all the bolts come out ok.
If it was easy, there would be more on the road.
Ho Hum.

[broady_6]

Well this afternoon I tackled the rotten and not working sunroof.


The roof lining had to go as the thing was rusted shut and I needed to get into the roof to be able to pry and bash bits about.
I got it to move enough to alow me to take it apart.








Now its all out I can sort the rust in the roof round the opening and rebuild the mechanism.
Then I can see about fitting my NOS panel.



Tony

Great to see it starting, and amazing to see the cables are the same all those year ago, or years later. Depending on your perspective. The smart roadster I recently had used the same teleflex type cable for its sunroof.

You mention a rotary wire brush, if im not too late. Use polly strip discs instead. Theyre much better at rust and paint removal, and dont polish the old rust into the surface. You also dont end up like a hedghog!

As I read further I see Mr Summers agrees.

Flap seals, any close cell foam will work. Ive used dodo liner before. Just because ive had an off cut from sound proofing floors.

I bet that factory filler, was once seam sealer which has since become rather aged.

A bit job a head of you, but you seem well stuck into it and the floor looks very solid. Always makes life easier.

[Dave Summers]

Great to see it starting, and amazing to see the cables are the same all those year ago, or years later. Depending on your perspective. The smart roadster I recently had used the same teleflex type cable for its sunroof.

You mention a rotary wire brush, if im not too late. Use polly strip discs instead. Theyre much better at rust and paint removal, and dont polish the old rust into the surface. You also dont end up like a hedghog!

As I read further I see Mr Summers agrees.

Flap seals, any close cell foam will work. Ive used dodo liner before. Just because ive had an off cut from sound proofing floors.

I bet that factory filler, was once seam sealer which has since become rather aged.

A bit job a head of you, but you seem well stuck into it and the floor looks very solid. Always makes life easier.

"Mr Summers" - Broady, you're being awfully formal!!

[Ant B]

Well I got back to the project at last.
Cut a hole in the floor to enable me to fix a hole.


Made up a repair section for the floor and stuck it in.


Then I welded the section of box that I cut out, back in.


Still need to make one more section but the rain came down, so I went into have coffee instead.

[Ant B]

Finished the floor repaair todaay while the sun was out and my hands still worked.


Now that is done I can move onto the rusty floor round the accelerator pedal.


Then hopefully I can clean up the rest of the floor and slop some paint around to stop it rusting anymore.

[Ant B]

Does anyone have or know what the accelerator pedal looks like for the 412.
I dont have one and cant find much out online, will anything else fit?
Thanks.

[Dave Summers]

Here is the one from the 412 that I'm (very gradually) restoring.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FSWuajaaY9zpo4Th9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/irW9BHLhYAKWj7XWA

If I can find a spare one I'll let you know.

[Ant B]

Thanks
At least I know what I am looking for now.

[Ant B]

Drivers door repairs at the moment.



A bit of rust, not as bad as the passenger door.



Still all fixed now and I can get the door hung now...well for a while anyway.



Be nice to get the cab sorted, then I could clear the shed a little bit.

[Ant B]

The door was hung and the door latch got working.
Then it was time to remove the windscreen.


The rubber is shot, so i will need to find an alternative.
Anyway, this showed where the leak was.


This also explains why the inside of the A piller is slighlt holely.


Still it gives me something to do in my retirement.

[Ant B]

This morning before the rain set in I stripped the paint and filler of the drivers sill.




After an hour of flap wheel sanding and clouds of dust, we have a clean sill.





We have one hole above the rear jacking point and another under the door, both in the flat bottom. no holes in the side, just some surface rust.
At the mo I have sprayed the sill in rust killer and will zink prime later before I find the time to tackle the holes.

[Ant B]

And it is still raining...sheeesh
shed time.

the channels that hold the wind up windows were rusted out.


So I made some new ones and welded them to the old brackets.


Another little job done.

we plod on.

[Ant B]

Weather is still bad, so I thought I would rebuild the rear drive shafts.
What cv boots will fit and I will need all new bolts and washers as well.
Help apreciated

[Dave Summers]

The club parts guide https://www.vwtype3and4club.org.uk/partswap.php says nothing else fits, but this website https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/cv- ... 5B0%5D=193 appears to have what you need. I've bought from them for my Mk2 Polo - delivery was slow but the parts were OK.
The bolts aren't stretch bolts so if they're in good condition I don't see any reason not to reuse them. If splines are worn I'd change them though.

[purplepeter]

I have absolutely no idea how we'd edit the partswap page,
But, given that Type 4 Driveshafts are the same as late Type 3, & Type 3 Boots are the same as IRS Type 1, I'd say we're fairly safe to suggest that you use type 1 boots! As Dave Summers has said, as long as the splines in the bolt head are in good nick, re-use them! (its definitely worth cleaning them out thoroughly on the bench/in a coffee jar of thinnners)
I'd suggest these, given that European parts tend to be better quality, quicker delivery & considerably cheaper than the rubbish sold in uk (Remember to keep your order under £135 to avoid import duty) https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/carda ... S00302.htm

[Dave Summers]

as long as the splines in the bolt head are in good nick, re-use them! (its definitely worth cleaning them out thoroughly on the bench/in a coffee jar of thinnners)

And before removing them, clean the splines with a small screwdriver and tap your splined bit in gently with a hammer. You don't want them rounding off.

[Ant B]

Thanks gents.
boots ordered

[Ant B]

Well type 1 irs boots are too small...oh poop.
will return them and try agian.

[broady_6]

Huge admiration for you tackling this outside! Ive got a garage and I cant be bothered to go out there, its 5c outside atm. Years gone by id be out there doing something, tonight im reading in front of the stove!

[Ant B]

Well I was out today welding up the air blower box under the dash.
Cut the bottom off and made an insert to go inside and welded that in.
Need to seal all the joins next and test for water tightness.
Twas a bit cold, but the welding soon warmed me up