Engine rebuid progress

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Tris.
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Engine rebuid progress

Post by Tris. » 12th October 2008 - 6:41pm

A few years ago, I removed the engine from my fasty to give it a clean...
I ended up stripping it down to the cases, it ran perfectly before I got my mits on it :oops: I then lost intrest and its sat ever since.

Anyhows, I've been inspired again and am hopefully going to rebuild it and get the car back on the road...
Current state :shock: ....

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Anyone know where all the bits go? :lol:

I'm ordering a new top end kit for it, pistons/pots/heads etc tomorrow, as you can see the cases have "furred" up.. Anyone know the best way to remove this? Wire brush on a drill?? Also I share the garage with my father, who likes to do wood work and everything is caked in sawdust...

I dont really want to split the cases, do you think I'd be safe to rebuild the engine and flush it a few times to rid any dust from the internals before running it?

Peeps, please prepare yourselfs for plenty of questions as I go through the rebuild :oops:
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Post by Editor » 12th October 2008 - 7:32pm

Use the parts book pictures to help work some of it out.

http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3/T3pbo/index.htm

Post a pic of any bits you're having trouble identifying.
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Post by purplepeter » 12th October 2008 - 9:33pm

Its a bit crazy not to split the case-1 speck of sawdust in the galleries and youll be knackered!

to clean the case,you could stick it in a parts washer for a couple of days,or think about soda blasting

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Post by Tris. » 13th October 2008 - 6:21pm

Soda blasting? same kinda thing as bead blasting? :?:
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Post by purplepeter » 13th October 2008 - 7:25pm

kinda similar..uses the same equipment,but sodium bicarb as the media,which reacts with hydrocarbons in a splat effect!
It's what they use to clean buildings in Bath!&engines-I bought a case that had been sodablasted,and it looks like its been sprayed silver,its so clean!

Having said that,theres not a lot of point,given how little of the case can be seen on an assembled engine!

You have to be carefull about the wire brush/electric drill routine

google or search volkszone

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Post by Tris. » 30th August 2009 - 5:01pm

Sorry to bump an old thread, but the engine is now fully disasembled :( I'm hoping to get it fully rebuilt over the up and coming winter months as and when funds allow.

First off I want to get the cases and other bits and bobs soda blasted as previously recomended, but cant find anywhere to do this.... anyone got any suggestions for me?
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Post by purplepeter » 30th August 2009 - 6:34pm

I understand theres a guy in swindon who does it..i'll try to find the details for you!

failing that,your local machine shop is a good alternative-get them to run it through a hot parts washer.

or if youve got a compressor,you can soda-blast it yourself..but 2 warnings-it goes really absolutely bloody everywhere :lol: & you get very funny looks in sainsburys when you buy every single tub of bicarb theyve got!

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Post by kyle » 30th August 2009 - 11:44pm

i wire brushed my case n the amount of $h!t that can off was unbelieveable and mine didnt look as 'furry' as urs. i split my case n cleaned it as good as i could, but as pete sed, jus b careful if ur not splittin the case cus $h!t loads comes off with a wire brush, and u dont c alot of it if u hav the oil air filter
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Post by Tris. » 4th September 2009 - 6:52pm

purplepeter wrote:I understand theres a guy in swindon who does it..i'll try to find the details for you!
Tracked him down thanks, cases are off to him tomorrow to be blasted, I'll get some after pics, incase anyone else is interested to see how good this soda blasting is...

One other q? I have 2 pulleys for some reason, one has 3 timing marks, and the other has 4, anyone know which would be for my engine (72 model)?
I'm guessing one is early and tuther late?
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Post by kyle » 4th September 2009 - 10:15pm

the pulley with 4 marks are for 1600 and early 1600e models

and the 1 with the 3 marks is for late 1600e models

but its not the age of the car its the engines age. if its the original engine use the 3 mark one. if its not the cars original engine n this engine came out a early style car then the proper pulley for that engine is the 4 mark one

if u aint sure maybe only 1 will fit?!

its only to help set the timing, any1 who knows what there doing will get it rite anyway!
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Post by Tris. » 5th September 2009 - 5:20am

kyle wrote: its only to help set the timing, any1 who knows what there doing will get it rite anyway!
That might become quite a problem then!! :lol:
3 slot one it is then... thanks for your help mate.
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Post by Editor » 7th September 2009 - 12:28am

There are diagrams of the fan pulley timing marks on the timing pages at www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/type3ign.htm - just find the one for your engine number.

The timing instructions assume the original distributor number is installed - it depends on that.
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Post by kyle » 7th September 2009 - 2:15am

hey theres a few haynes t3 manuals on e-bizzle (ebay "soz bout that lil outburst") :lol:
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Post by Editor » 7th September 2009 - 11:26pm

Yes, Haynes are always up there, both Type 3 and 4.

The Type 3 manual that is worth looking out for if you have auto or FI is the Bentley one that uses VW of America workshop pics - much clearer than Haynes, but doesn't deal with carbs at all (USA didn't have them after '67) or give you some non-official methods and hints.
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Post by Tris. » 12th September 2009 - 6:19pm

Got the cases back this afternoon... Pretty pleased with the result :)

Image

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Now prepare yourselfs guys, for all the stupid q's coming your way as I attempt to rebuild it :? :lol:
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Post by kyle » 13th September 2009 - 10:22pm

its pretty easy really cool air hav a pretty good instructions (with pictures) for the block, but do the oil cooler 1st cus it was a bit tricky bolting it on with the barrels in the way! then the block, then the back part of the fan housing connecting to the stat that bolts under the right hand side head, onto the sump. fan then lower pulley then the other part of the fan housing. lower tins n the rest is straight forward good luck!!!

8)
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Post by purplepeter » 14th September 2009 - 10:11am

Can you give us the details of the soda blaster please??-it'll save a lot of searching!
Get the oilways cleaned out asap,as the soda is pretty impossible to clean out after a while,& oil the studs to prevent corrosion

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Post by Tris. » 14th September 2009 - 12:10pm

D Griffin and Son,
There in Purton, Swindon.
Tel no is 01793 770807. They'll answer the phone as "Griffin pest control" so dont think that you have the wrong number!!
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Post by Tris. » 18th September 2009 - 3:19pm

Ok, so the cases are now reunited, new main bearings and cam shaft bearings fitted, so far so good...
Gotta wait a couple of weeks for payday before I can afford new pistons and cylinders, so thought I'd fit up the odd bit or two to the cases in the meantime.
Now I've gone to fit the fuel pump as seen here....

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But does it just bolt on and job done? Is this it in its entirety?

Image

I seem to remember on carbed models the was a push rod running down to the cam? Shouldn't there be something simular used here?
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Post by kyle » 19th September 2009 - 1:59am

the rod rests and is pushed up and down by the distributor shaft.

so it that a injection fuel pump? cus i aint never seen one of those so i dont no if it has one but some engines hav a pump pedistol and the rod goes in there to keep it straight.

b4 i changed my but engine it didnt have the pump pedistol so i dont no what stopped the sidwards movement cus i never took it apart

lookin good tho 8)
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Post by Editor » 19th September 2009 - 6:57pm

That's the cold engine enrichment device for an injection engine. The underneath bit is a bimetal strip that turns to close up an air-passage as the engine oil warms up and the need for an enriched mixture gets less.

In an injection engine, when you open the throttle or allow more air into the manifold it injects more fuel.

That's certainly where the fuel pump goes on a carbed engine, and it needs a push-rod to work.

The fuel pump on injection engines is at the front near the fuel tank and filter.
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Post by Tris. » 19th September 2009 - 7:38pm

Ok, thanks Dave, :) So theres nothing else to fit, just bolt this straight on then?
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Post by purplepeter » 19th September 2009 - 8:22pm

Get it covered up though,in case your dad does any woodwork!
Have you used lots of assembly lube??

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Post by kyle » 20th September 2009 - 12:42am

so does that go in the same place as the fuel pump on a carbed engine? n does it hav an electric pump then?
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Post by Editor » 20th September 2009 - 4:59pm

Yes - electric pump mounted on front axle. Two fuel lines, front to back and return. That gives it plenty of fuel in circulation so pressure doesn't drop when an injector fires - in fact two fire at the same time to simplify the system.
Dave.

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