Static valve timing

[ballbag]

Hi guys, I've taken my motor out for a freshen up, found a loose head, splits in the ballance pipe joints on the manifolds, crushed fuel pipe, etc, etc.
Anyway, it's all cleaned and built back up but I don't know which timimg mark to use for the static valve timing, can anyone help?

Here's the 3 marks on the pulley

[Editor]

Take a look at http://home.clara.net/hallvw/type3ign.htm and see if any of those timing marks make sense of yours - I think some has taken a chisel to it!

It depends more on the distributor you are using than the engine, but engine off, around 7.5 deg BTDC is likely to be close.

You may have to establish where TDC is and work it out from there.

If you have to do it 'by ear', don't go for fastest idle, as that will be too advanced. I'd prefer to use a timing light, once you've established the right setting from distributor number.

[ballbag]

Well a friend (who has built lots of type 1 motors) and me did the static valve timing while the engine was out of the car and TDC always seemed to be the left hand side mark on the pulley, which is now obviously 7.5 BTDC.

It already has a 009 dizzy although number 1 cylinder on the dizzy was top left.

I've put it back in today and tried to start it but it didn't seem to be firing but then my battery died

I left it then as I had to go to work.

Any advice?

[Matthew26]

Set the timing to 0 degress for start-up. Aligne centre of crank case to 1st notch on the left of the pulley. Check that both rockers on number 1 cylinder have play between the tappet and the valve, this will indicate TDC. The position of the rotor arm in the distributor should point to the notch in the distributor and point top To middle right=no1. If the rotor points any where else then the distributor drive has been fitted incorrectly. You can try and remove the drive and re-fit in the correct position or re-fit the distributor or you can re-arrange the distributor leads on the distributor cap. Once you have got the engine started then you can set the trimming using a strobe light. 009 should be set at 10 degrees at idle but then you need to mark 30 digress on the pulley and make sure that the timing doesn't advance any further than the 30 degree mark when engine is at full throttle. The pulley you have should be marked from left to right 0 5 10. I can let you now how to mark 30 degrees.

[Editor]

Type 3 pulleys should have 4 timing marks - clearly yours has been butchered. With 4 marks like | . ||| (ignore dot) the left one on its own is TDC.

Why is top dead centre now "obviously 7.5 deg BTDC"? It won't have changed from TDC, if that's what it was before.

To change the distributor drive, you run a small risk of having to take the engine apart if you drop the washer(s) in the engine. Since it's an 009, it doesn't have any specific orientation, because there is no retard on no. 3 cylinder, unlike the original VW type 3 distributors, though you might confuse a mechanic if you don't use the rim notch for no. 1 cylinder.


Just make sure the spark plug wire position matches the cylinder that's at top dead centre (both valves closed). You may have to check the valves to be sure. TDC for each piston will be where the crankshaft goes floppy after a compression (turning clockwise). The timing mark bit is TDC for 1 and 3 (the valves tell you which, and the in between flat piece shows TDC for 4 and 2 (firing 1-4-3-2). If 1 is where the rotor arm points to the notch on the rim, that's happy, but it won't make a difference on an 009 which one is which, as long as they are in the right places for the firing strokes.

On the normal Type 3 distributor, the vacuum can may get in the way if you get the drive inserted wrong, and the no. 3 retard would then be on the wrong cylinder.

[ballbag]

All sorted now, thanks guys

[Editor]

Glad to hear it. Still baffled why the timing marks have been messed up - it should have 4. Is this something 009 enthusiasts do to the Type 3 pulley?

[sima112]

The timing mark bit is TDC for 1 and 3 (the valves tell you which, and the in between flat piece shows TDC for 4 and 2

Hi Dave or anybody who knows

Im pretty sure this very left notch is my TDC for 1 and 3



However still struggling with 2 and 4
I dont understand what does "the in between flat piece" mean?



this looks the pulley aprox. 180 degrees opposite the notch. Where is the exact spot please?

Thank you Sima

[purplepeter]

Yes Sima, the left mark is TDC for 1 & 3
The flat mark is for 2 & 4 - just aim for the middle of the mark
Have you got the L shaped plate to aid timing ?
Incidentally, I can't see the photos on your other post, but I can on this one

[sima112]

Thank you purplepeter, thats what I thought.
And also thanks for letting me know of the photos issue I will study how to post it in Brodys article and fix it.
Ive read about the L shape plate in some topic, guess it was from Haynes manual. I have only Bentley´s and Muir´s
If you can post a photo would be great although I have an idea and i will make it

[sparkywig]

Butty's Bits sell them.

https://www.buttysbits.com/product/bb-2 ... nder-tool/

[sima112]

Perfect, thank you

[purplepeter]

Here's mine, made in a hurry 15 years ago.. I've been meaning to refine it/ make a neater version, but it works & there's always something better to do!

Dimensions: across the top of the short bit of the L is 40mm. Down the outer part of the long leg is 75mm. width of the long leg is 17mm. inner part of long leg is 50mm. the inner part of the short top is 20mm & the saw cut (to accommodate the lip of the tinware ) is 2 mm wide

sima l plate.jpg (51.66 KiB) Viewed 7112 times

[sima112]

Awesome! It will safe me lot of measuring. Thanks a lot!!